I'm planning to set up a small workshop in my basement and can't decide what type of countertop to have on my workbench. I would like it to be 80 cm deep, so all the usual cheap countertops are out of the question. The material should be durable but it's quite important that it doesn't cost a fortune. I've been considering using particle board or other sheet materials. They are cheap at least. I think the best would be to have an oak countertop. But that's a bit too expensive.
What material is suitable? Could I perhaps lacquer particle boards to make them durable? I will have about 4 meters of workbench in total.
All thoughts and suggestions are gratefully received!
What material is suitable? Could I perhaps lacquer particle boards to make them durable? I will have about 4 meters of workbench in total.
All thoughts and suggestions are gratefully received!
Formplyfa is significantly more durable than particle board and has a surface that withstands moisture and can also be cleaned when it gets dirty.
What you are going to do on the board determines your choice of material?
What you are going to do on the board determines your choice of material?
Since the surface of the workbench will eventually become quite rough from all the tools, saw marks, drill holes, etc., it's not worth investing in any specific board. Better to do it like this:
Buy tongue-and-groove boards/planks, at least 28 mm thick. Cut them to the desired length for the bench and join them to the desired width with glue in the groove. (Ensure all boards/planks have the core side facing up.) If it's upside-down when you're doing it, you can screw on (in countersunk holes) 45x70 battens from underneath at each end to keep the surface untouched. (The battens can be used as part of the frame.) Then flip the board and cover it with 1/8" (3.2 mm) hardboard that you've soaked first and nail on with fiberboard nails while wet so it stretches out and becomes flat after drying for a couple of days.
When the 'workbench top' becomes damaged, you can simply tear off the hardboard and apply a new one to have a fresh-looking workbench again. It can withstand quite a bit of pounding and hammering without collapsing.
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Byggaren
Buy tongue-and-groove boards/planks, at least 28 mm thick. Cut them to the desired length for the bench and join them to the desired width with glue in the groove. (Ensure all boards/planks have the core side facing up.) If it's upside-down when you're doing it, you can screw on (in countersunk holes) 45x70 battens from underneath at each end to keep the surface untouched. (The battens can be used as part of the frame.) Then flip the board and cover it with 1/8" (3.2 mm) hardboard that you've soaked first and nail on with fiberboard nails while wet so it stretches out and becomes flat after drying for a couple of days.
When the 'workbench top' becomes damaged, you can simply tear off the hardboard and apply a new one to have a fresh-looking workbench again. It can withstand quite a bit of pounding and hammering without collapsing.
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Byggaren
Thank you for all the answers. It's fun to read all your theories.
I decided to use 60 cm boards instead. I figured it would probably be better since it's so hard to find wider boards.
I found a nyatoh countertop for 479 kr. So that will probably be the choice. It will look a bit nicer too. It should withstand a bit and can also be sanded down.
I decided to use 60 cm boards instead. I figured it would probably be better since it's so hard to find wider boards.
I found a nyatoh countertop for 479 kr. So that will probably be the choice. It will look a bit nicer too. It should withstand a bit and can also be sanded down.
Hi,slaskman said:
Old thread that I’ve found.
Those of you who have dressed the edge of, for example, a workbench with metal or something similar, how did you do it? What material and how did you attach it?
I've never seen a bent metal profile at hardware stores that is long enough to cover an entire board edge. Maybe I need to go to the metalworker?
Have you milled down the angle into the board to get an even surface?
Regards,
Stefan
Would angle iron be too ugly and clunky? It can really take a beating otherwise, and is available in long lengths.stew said:
I would probably have milled down at least most of the thickness of the iron, but that's a matter of taste.
I furnished my boiler room with an old kitchen interior and used floor chipboard for the surface. Since the bench mainly serves as temporary storage and a base for some odds and ends, there aren't high demands on durability. I painted it with the leftover floor paint.