Is there any practical difference between lock panel and horizontal beveled siding? Other than the cosmetic.

Does one offer better protection than the other or have other advantages/disadvantages?

This concerns house siding.
 
There are no huge differences, but one advantage I see with horizontal cladding is that you can use thinner battens since they can be attached directly to each vertical stud. However, this only applies when the framework is not cross-laid as it might be in newer houses to accommodate some extra insulation.

Another advantage is that the battens are vertical and thus do not at all prevent moisture drainage behind the cladding. However, this is not a major problem with vertical cladding either except in extremely rain-exposed areas!
 
Another advantage of horizontal paneling is that it is easier to install, you don't have to calculate the distance between boards concerning corners, trim around windows and doors, and the like.
 
In addition to Vectrex's wise points ( :thumbup: ), I think there are two more advantages:

  • The horizontal beveled or tongued and grooved paneling is much more resistant to driving rain than vertical board-and-batten paneling. There are no gaps where water can seep in.
  • It is easy to replace one or two boards at the bottom if rot damage starts to occur (which always starts at the bottom). On a vertical panel, the entire boards must be replaced all the way up, or you would have to make unsightly and technically poor joints.
 
Aren't the joints on a horizontal panel especially exposed?
 
MUSS said:
Don't the joints on a horizontal panel become extra exposed?
Well, not worse than the joints on a vertical panel.

And it doesn't have to be that many joints. The facade is interrupted by window and door openings.
 
KnockOnWood said:
Well, no worse than joints in vertical paneling.

And it doesn't have to be that many joints. The facade is interrupted by window and door openings.
I just take my one-story house as a reference, where I choose whether I want joints in my vertical paneling, in my case, of course, completely without. If I had horizontal paneling, I would have been forced to have some. I have no experience with horizontal paneling, but it seems like the joints become a weak point.

I've seen a couple of houses where the window moldings are on top of the horizontal panels that run all the way from bottom to top to cover the joint, but it was certainly not very pretty.
 
MUSS said:
...
I have seen a couple of houses with window frames on the outside of the horizontal panels that run all the way from ground to top to cover the joint, but it was certainly not very nice.
Isn't that typical for factory-built houses?
They must divide the panel at the module joints, so there might be a couple of extra "frames" on the panel.
But they don't do that at the windows, of course.
I agree that it's not nice.

But of course, every joint is a weak point.
If you can wait seven years, I can report how my panel joints have held up.
Then the house will be ten years old :)
 
I prefer horizontal siding over board and batten. However, horizontal was an option that cost me 27,000 SEK. It's nice that I can justify it with the fact that it actually has some practical advantages too :-)
 
Anna1984 said:
I prefer horizontal paneling over locked panels. However, the horizontal was an additional option that cost me 27,000 SEK. It's nice that I can justify it with the fact that it actually has some practical advantages too :-)
Appearance is important, and it sure looks nice!

This is how it looks at my place (Longing for summer)
Gray house with red tile roof, adjacent to another similar structure, surrounded by greenery. Outdoor chairs and table visible in the yard.
 
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My garage must also have horizontal paneling, I can see that here :-)
 
KnockOnWood said:
Appearance is important, and sure it looks nice!

This is how it looks at my place (Longing for summer)
[image]
Nice house!

What color do you have, the gray one?
 
It is actually two gray shades.
The residential building is Jotun's Demidekk "Morgondis" color code S1500-N.
The stable (the garage is almost the same but not visible, it is behind the photographer) is Flügger's alkyd oil paint with color code S2500-N.

The small houses are thus a shade darker, but the difference is only noticeable if you look closely.

In any case, we are extremely pleased with the result.
 
KnockOnWood said:
It is actually two shades of gray.
The residential building is Jotun's Demidekk "Morgondis" color code S1500-N
The stable (the garage is almost the same but not visible, it's behind the photographer) is Flügger's alkyd oil paint with color code S2500-N.

The small houses are thus a notch darker, but the difference is only noticeable if you look closely.

We are, in any case, very satisfied with the result.
Aha!

I've been looking at different pictures of exactly demidekk morgondis and demidekk kontur all evening.

I can't decide...
 
hantverkare1 said:
Aha!

I've spent the whole evening looking at different pictures of Jotun's Demidekk Morgondis and Demidekk Kontur.

I can't decide...
Kontur is much darker, right?
It's probably not solvable without doing test painting.
Or take a walk/drive around and look at houses, knock on the door, and ask what color it is.
I've actually done that once :o


(Do you want directions and an address? It's just 500 km :) )


PS
Jotun's color names are misleadingly beautiful.
Now we've painted with Morgondis. Our previous house was painted in Grændegul. Doesn't that sound nice!
 
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