9,058 views ·
16 replies
9k views
16 replies
Heating during construction
Page 1 of 2
Hello,
I'm in the middle of a complete renovation where, among other things, the oil furnace has been removed to make way for upcoming geothermal heating with underfloor heating. It's starting to get cold now, and I'm pondering how we can best minimize problems and maintain comfortable warmth during the winter.
Today, we only have a couple of old direct-acting electric radiators running. What should we invest in for heating during the winter? We will likely need heat for about 4-5 months.
- Construction heaters, rent or buy?
- Pour the slab in the basement and start the underfloor heating with a temporary pump?
- Continue with direct electric heat and supplement if needed
Then I'm wondering what problems might arise if the house is insufficiently heated during the winter. Things like the dew point being wrong in the walls and it becoming humid indoors. How important is it? Currently, the first floor has internal walls that are simple, and the inside of the exterior walls are framed. The basement is basically just concrete. Electricity will be installed during the winter, and floors/walls are to be completed.
I'm in the middle of a complete renovation where, among other things, the oil furnace has been removed to make way for upcoming geothermal heating with underfloor heating. It's starting to get cold now, and I'm pondering how we can best minimize problems and maintain comfortable warmth during the winter.
Today, we only have a couple of old direct-acting electric radiators running. What should we invest in for heating during the winter? We will likely need heat for about 4-5 months.
- Construction heaters, rent or buy?
- Pour the slab in the basement and start the underfloor heating with a temporary pump?
- Continue with direct electric heat and supplement if needed
Then I'm wondering what problems might arise if the house is insufficiently heated during the winter. Things like the dew point being wrong in the walls and it becoming humid indoors. How important is it? Currently, the first floor has internal walls that are simple, and the inside of the exterior walls are framed. The basement is basically just concrete. Electricity will be installed during the winter, and floors/walls are to be completed.
Buying construction fans doesn't need to be professional quality. I bought 2 large ones at ÖB for 1,000 SEK each.
If you're not living in the house but only working there, you can let the temperature drop to 12-14 degrees without a problem.
I sold the fans after the construction for 1,000 SEK for both, so the total cost was modest (except for the consumption).
They used electricity for 2,500 SEK per month during construction time.
If you're not living in the house but only working there, you can let the temperature drop to 12-14 degrees without a problem.
I sold the fans after the construction for 1,000 SEK for both, so the total cost was modest (except for the consumption).
They used electricity for 2,500 SEK per month during construction time.
Compartment heater for car is definitely the cheapest.....like ÖB or Biltema and similar
If you find anything cheaper than this, buy it....
http://biltema.se/sv/Bygg/Flakt/Varmeflakt-46223/
http://biltema.se/sv/Bygg/Flakt/Varmeflakt-46223/
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 509 posts
The ones that Jula has on promotion don't look too bad. Maybe it's something to consider? http://www.jula.se/varmeflakt-650-1300-2000-w-411031
Biltema has the same for 399:- http://biltema.se/sv/Bygg/Flakt/Varmeflakt-2000-W230-V-35098/
Biltema has the same for 399:- http://biltema.se/sv/Bygg/Flakt/Varmeflakt-2000-W230-V-35098/
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The construction fans can handle continuous operation unattended, which I would never dare with a small car heater in that price range. Additionally, construction fans have better heating elements that are not as fearfully hot as a cheap car heater with a filament. Thus, there's less fire risk due to dust.
Wouldn't it have been worth it to buy an air-to-air heat pump at Jula for 5000 kr during the construction period and then sell it?
Diversearbetare
· Göteborg
· 11 246 posts
I would also suggest that. An alternative is to get the geothermal heating working and connect it to one or two Frico heaters via PEX pipes. The savings are significant compared to direct electric heating during the coldest months of the year. You can sell the heater later.verktygsgurun said:
Have the same question, renovating a 1910s 1.5-story villa that previously only had direct electric heating and an old wood-burning stove, long since out of use. We are currently using it while renovating, but we're considering installing a cheap L/L pump to use during the winter to avoid excessively high electricity costs, and then connect the L/V pump that will be installed in the spring. Can the old stove be replaced with a water-jacketed one and used without connecting the water, or does it only work with connected water?
Regardless of which heat source you choose, maintain 20-22 degrees to get rid of all the building moisture, and you'll be a winner over the building moisture, which will benefit you in the future. Keep that in mind.