No need for a civil engineer to calculate a truss roof like this.
We learned this in high school in the '80s.
Just dust off the knowledge of Cremona's force plan and calculate the load-bearing capacity and deflection of the truss that the roof truss constitutes.
We who went to high school in the '80s can do this indeed!
I've seen some mistakes where in the belief that it's being done correctly, it becomes wrong..
I like your approach 👍
In addition to the wall being drawn in the sectional drawing, I note that the trusses are asymmetrical.
Which would be a bit strange if they were supposed to be free-standing across the entire span between the outer walls.
A bit OT, but what do you mean by the trusses being asymmetrical? I think they look (mirror) symmetrical in the drawing?
I know very little about trusses (obviously) but I would like to understand 🙏
Those of us who went to high school in the 80s know this, yes!
I've seen some mistakes where thinking one is doing it right ends up being wrong..
I like your approach 👍
Even those of us who went to high school in 2010 know this
....in such an old house and absolutely nothing indicating that the wall is NOT load-bearing, and you also get sagging when you remove the wall....what is there to discuss really?
I have cut into or removed parts of practically every wall in my house and never have I experienced sagging on anything where the wall is not load-bearing.
Just putting up a beam in the ceiling and placing posts at the ends will solve it.
We have performed a similar maneuver on a similar house. Had a contractor specialized in older houses come out, who just nodded and said it was all about taking it down. It's obvious that your wall carried a load since there was a deflection and it pinched when you took down the wall. However, this doesn't mean that the wall was built as a load-bearing wall from the start.
In any case, how was the wall connected down to the joists? On the drawing, the wall appears to be offset in relation to the load-bearing wall in the basement.
From experience, the dimension of the roof trusses is too weak; almost no roof trusses from that time were self-supporting.
I have a house from '71 with truss roof trusses that seem to be the same dimensions, do you mean they are not self-supporting even though it says they are self-supporting?
From experience, the dimensions of the trusses are too weak; almost no trusses from that time were free-spanning
Have you calculated the truss? Which dimensions are too weak? The whole point of a framework is that the framework itself provides strength to the construction.
What exactly is the definition of load-bearing walls?
1. Walls that are designated/intended as load-bearing in the construction.
2. Walls that cause the (inner) ceiling/floor to sink 10mm.
3. Walls that are drawn on the sectional drawing.
Then you're not looking closely enough.
The left side has two diagonals and the right side has three.
Then it's probably because the support on the right side is recessed, as has been pointed out.
The section shows two different types of trusses depending on where the right support is located. There are different spans for the living room section versus the bedroom section.
Wrong, this type of truss is self-supporting over this span if it is properly dimensioned. I have designed and constructed such trusses myself.
It looks quite weak.
But then explain why the trusses have been made asymmetric if they are supposed to be self-supporting over the entire span between the outer walls?
The mere fact that it initially sags a whole centimeter upon the removal of an interior wall raises questions.
The roof is guaranteed to continue sagging downwards a few more centimeters. Even if the trusses may never break.
It looks quite weak.
But then answer why the trusses are made asymmetrical if they are supposed to be free-standing across the entire span between the outer walls?
Just the fact that it initially sags an entire centimeter when removing an inner wall raises questions.
The roof will definitely continue to sag downward a few centimeters even if the trusses maybe never break.
The reason for the asymmetry is because there is an overhang on the right in the picture. You never want a load/support over a free part of the lower chord, so they have added an extra brace to help take the load at the support.
On the left side, the support is where the upper and lower chords meet, so the extra brace in the truss is not needed there.
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Huddingebo said: