Need tips!
I live in a house with a basement. The basement mostly consists of masonry walls, both against the exterior walls and partition walls. The floor is a concrete slab on the ground.
In the laundry room, I am considering putting tiles on the walls and possibly tiles on the floor. Can you put tiles directly on the walls, regardless of whether it's against an exterior wall or a partition wall, or should any other measures be taken first?
Similarly, what applies to tiles on the floor? Can they be laid directly on the concrete floor?
Grateful for advice and tips from those of you with experience in the area.
Thanks in advance!
 
I laid tiles directly on the walls and floor in my laundry room in the basement. No waterproofing in any form. I don't know what the rules say nowadays, but having it too tight in a basement is not good.

The mistake I made was not replastering and leveling the walls. It was a nightmare to tile on such uneven walls. It took too long and didn't turn out quite right.
 
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Morgano
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It is fine to tile directly on wall and floor, but note that if you have some moisture penetration (slab on grade and uninsulated exterior wall), you should preferably use smaller format tiles so that the grout can allow any moisture to pass through.
 
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Morgano
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Thank you anders07 and Joh_81
 
I'm bringing up the thread as I have a similar question. I have similar conditions; a house from the 1920s with a 2.5-story villa with a basement consisting of a concrete slab on the ground with concrete walls, quarry-cut granite on the exterior. All uninsulated but substantial. I plan to use the basement as a garage and sauna/shower/relaxation area as well as a hobby room. In other words, it is an unfinished basement with only inorganic materials.

I'm thinking of laying tiles directly on the concrete and painting both the outer and inner walls with a good silicate paint after removing all the old plastic paint. But when it comes to the sauna and relaxation area; Can you use granite ceramic on the walls that are against the exterior wall? Or should you just use silicate paint? The question is simply whether the granite ceramic allows enough moisture to pass through. What size tiles should be used? I assume that very large tiles become problematic since it's mostly in the joints where moisture can move freely? Alternatively, granite ceramic can just be used on the floor and inner walls. Waterproofing only in the shower, and in the rest of the basement, moisture is supposed to move freely.

I assume the ceiling isn't as important to be diffusion-open since it isn't exposed to moisture in the same way. It's partly a concrete ceiling (in the sauna/relaxation area), and the rest is wooden joists where the ceiling is lime plaster (revetment) that unfortunately has been painted over with plastic paint. In the concrete ceiling part, I will remove all the old paint and paint with silicate paint. But in the part with lime plaster on a mat that is painted over, I'm afraid the plaster will start to come off if I go too hard to remove the plastic paint and I would prefer not to tear down the entire ceiling. I'm open to suggestions on how to remove the old paint or if I should just paint over it since the ceiling isn't as exposed to moisture.

Finally, I wonder what materials allow moisture to pass through? I don't want to risk trapping moisture in the floor and walls. I'm thinking, for example, of primer, leveling compound, tile adhesive, grout, etc.

This turned into many questions. All input is gratefully received.

Happy Easter!
 
BirgitS
Capablanca Capablanca said:
I am bringing up the thread because I have a similar question. I have similar conditions; a house from the 1920s with a 2.5-story villa with a basement consisting of a concrete slab against the ground with walls made of concrete, dressed granite externally. It's all uninsulated but well constructed. Plan to use the basement as a garage and sauna/shower/relaxation area, as well as a hobby room. That is, an unfinished basement with only inorganic materials.

I was thinking of laying tiles directly on the concrete and painting both the outer and inner walls with a good silicate paint after removing all the old plastic paint. But when it comes to the sauna and relaxation area: Can one use granite ceramics on walls that are against the outer wall? Or should one preferably use just silicate paint? The question is simply whether granite ceramics allow enough moisture to pass through? What size tiles should one use? I assume very large tiles can be problematic since it's mainly in the joints that moisture can move freely? Alternatively, one can use granite ceramics just on the floor and inner walls. Waterproofing only in the shower and let moisture move freely in the rest of the basement is the plan.

I assume the ceiling isn't as important to be vapor-permeable since it isn’t exposed to moisture in the same way. It is partially a concrete ceiling (in the sauna/relaxation area) and the rest is a wooden beam ceiling where the ceiling has a lime plaster (rendered) that is unfortunately overpainted with plastic paint. In the part that is a concrete ceiling, I will remove all the old paint and repaint it with silicate paint. But in the part with lime plaster on matting that is overpainted, I am afraid the plaster will start to peel if I go too hard to remove the plastic paint and I would prefer not to tear down the entire ceiling. I would appreciate tips on how to remove the old paint or if I should just paint over it since the ceiling isn't as moisture-exposed.

Finally, I wonder which materials allow moisture to pass through? I don't want to risk trapping moisture in the floor and walls. I am thinking, for example, of primer, self-leveling compound, tile adhesive, grout, etc.

These became many questions. Any input is welcome.

Happy Easter!
It is usually recommended to use small tiles and wide joints, meaning tiles in sizes such as 15x15 and 20x20 respectively, with joints at least 3 mm wide.

Granite ceramics barely let moisture through, which is why they can be used in places that are damp and below freezing.

Waterproofing only on surfaces that often get wet.

There are special primers, self-leveling compounds, etc., for humid environments; they are, for example, vapor-permeable.

Grout is similar to concrete and allows moisture to pass through.

Thank you, the same to you!
 
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Aj12
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Thank you.

It can be added that we do not have any moisture problems in the basement as it is right now. So I plan to hold off on drainage and instead "do it right" in the basement, i.e., remove all old paint from the exterior walls and paint with proper silicate paint.

-If we don't have any moisture problems today, is it fine to use granite ceramic on the floor, directly on the concrete? If yes, in what format? Do large tiles work, or do we need to go down to 30x30?
-I assume the concrete floor must first be sanded to remove all old paint?
-Should tiles be avoided on concrete against the exterior wall?
-Do you also need to scrape off all the old paint on the interior walls?
-What about the ceiling? Is it also important to remove all old paint from there, or does it matter less?

/C
 
BirgitS
Capablanca Capablanca said:
-If we don't have any moisture issues today, is it okay to use granite ceramic on the floor, directly on the concrete? If yes, what format? Do large tiles work or do we need to go down to 30x30?
If I understand it correctly, there is currently a concrete slab from which moisture can evaporate, and in that case, it's hard to know if there will be any moisture issues with large tiles with narrow joints.
 
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Capablanca
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