I am going to prepare the hallway floor (about 2.5m2) to then lay down LK's 16mm EPS boards and then tile on top of that. The tiles will be directly attached to the EPS boards according to LK's instructions.
Currently, I have about 340cc between the joists (140x45 with 1100mm span) and 15mm tongue-and-groove boards as the subfloor, and it feels rigid and nice, only building up 15mm. However, unfortunately, the boards are partially cut through in some places and have lost their load-bearing capacity, so I was thinking of replacing the damaged boards with the same type, or alternatively removing everything and screw-gluing 18mm chipboard instead.
I am very concerned about the construction height, so I wonder what I should choose to provide the firmest possible substrate for the EPS and the tiles?
Currently, I have about 340cc between the joists (140x45 with 1100mm span) and 15mm tongue-and-groove boards as the subfloor, and it feels rigid and nice, only building up 15mm. However, unfortunately, the boards are partially cut through in some places and have lost their load-bearing capacity, so I was thinking of replacing the damaged boards with the same type, or alternatively removing everything and screw-gluing 18mm chipboard instead.
I am very concerned about the construction height, so I wonder what I should choose to provide the firmest possible substrate for the EPS and the tiles?
Well, preferably not, as it amounts to 22+13 (gips)+10 (klinker) = 45mm. Perhaps a few mm more for some form of adhesive between the chipboard and gips as well.
Whereas 15mm tongue and groove boards + 16 EPS + klinker 10 = 41mm, plus it's significantly less work.
Whereas 15mm tongue and groove boards + 16 EPS + klinker 10 = 41mm, plus it's significantly less work.
I would not lay tiles on 15 mm even with 34 cm cc. If you find 18 mm floor chipboard (NOTE! Floor chipboard!), it could work, but 22 is best to be on the safe side. With 18 mm, I would probably also use flexfix and flex grout just to be safe. You can use float adhesive when laying so it only builds 2-3 mm and I think that's what LK recommends as well...
18 chipboard panels are available at Bauhaus, so it's no problem. Do you think the joints or tiles (about 30x30) will crack with just an 18 panel? If you're opening up the floor, you can also screw-glue a 45x120 on the planks along both sides of each beam to simulate a 135 beam and gain more bearing surface for the chipboard. Feels like it should be more rigid than 600cc and a 22 panel, which is approved.
I'm concerned about the building height because the front door threshold is at its level. Also, the hall floor serves as a landing for the upper step from the basement, so it would be a bit awkward if the floor is too thick.
I'm concerned about the building height because the front door threshold is at its level. Also, the hall floor serves as a landing for the upper step from the basement, so it would be a bit awkward if the floor is too thick.
I spoke with Forestia, who sell the 18mm floor particle board yesterday, and according to them, it wouldn't be a problem if you could reduce the center-to-center spacing to 300 and, while you're at it, add a few noggins in the joists. So that's what I'm going to go with!