Thickness of interior wall with door

[Martin Lj]

Thinking of dividing the living room with a wall and door to create another bedroom (see picture).

Wondering how to consider the thickness of the wall if a door is to be installed. Let's say the door frame is 10 cm thick, and I plan to use both OSB and drywall. If we account for 4 cm of OSB and drywall on both sides of the wall, should the studs in the wall then be 6 cm for the door frame to be the same thickness as the wall? The numbers are hypothetical; I'm just wondering if my thinking is correct. I think it’s easiest to install door trim if the door frame is the same thickness as the wall.



Also wondering what the easiest way to take markings from the outer wall for the studs on the inner wall is. I want the inner wall to be at 90 degrees to the outer wall. Do people use some smart laser tool for that?

 

[A.G]

Hello.

There are only 45mm and 70mm studs.

25+25+70=110mm wall.

 

[A.G]

If I am not mistaken, there are 68, 93, 100, 118 karmar.

 

[A.G]

Molding all around and complement with a narrow trim piece "inside" the frame.

 

[Bernieberg]

If you are going to buy a new door, there are frames with a depth that matches 70 mm studs + OSB + plasterboard. This is one of several standard dimensions.

If the frame is not as deep as the wall, you can use suitable timber (also known as smyg) to bring it flush with the wall. This is done on one side, and the other (hinge side) is set level with the wall (so that the door can be fully opened).

To ensure the new wall is perpendicular to the outer wall, you can use trigonometry.

Example 1: measure from the corner and make markings, e.g. 2000 mm out on both the outer wall and a stud that marks the new wall. The distance between these marks should be "square root of two" longer than between the corner and the marks. If the marks are 2000 mm from the corner, the diagonal should be 2828 mm.

Example 2: the same principle but with simpler numbers. If one mark is 3000 mm from the corner and the other is 4000 mm from the corner, the diagonal between the marks should be 5000 mm. If these distances are too long, you can take half or any other scaling of all three.

 

[Jarlsgård]

If you take 70 studs, which is more than enough if you're going to work with both OSB and plasterboard, it becomes:

13 (plasterboard) + 11 (OSB) + 70 (stud) + 11 + 13 = 118mm.

As A.G mentioned, there are frames that have that thickness; I installed one myself just a month ago.

If you don't feel like calculating or simply have a wall that's too thick, you can always use moldings (or similar). When I installed my 118mm frame, it wasn't enough because the wall is 128mm thick, so I simply added a 10mm molding to get the right thickness on everything

 

[Martin Lj]

Great, thanks for the answers!

 

[rävlyan]

Getting a 90-degree angle at the outer wall is Builder's square 3 + 4 = 5 Pythagoras
Hope you understand the sketch
Measurements A and B can be anything, C becomes the product of it just measure

 

[Mazen]

Easiest to remember (at least for me) is 60, 80, 100. That is, one side 60cm, the other 80cm, and the diagonal 100cm.

Or lay out a plywood on the floor, they are 90 degrees at the corners.

 

[rävlyan]

Another example that might be better for TS

 

[rävlyan]

Easiest to remember (at least for me) is 60, 80, 100

Not wrong at all, just different thinking. 60, 80, 100 is good for short distances, the longer
on the short (catheters) pieces the more accurate in mm the (hypotenuse) long part becomes.