B
My neighbor is building a fence between our properties.
About 3 decimeters into his own property.
I get the nice side facing me, so I have nothing to complain about.

But now my question:
He digs down posts 50 cm deep, with about 10 cm sticking up.
A little gravel and dry concrete at the bottom. Then a half-year concrete around the lower part of the post. Then he puts back the soil and macadam mixture that was originally the ground. He adds a little water between the dry concrete and the upper layer.

He says they will stand firmer and that the concrete sets with the water he pours on, and since the soil is moist, it will be good.

Does this work?
 
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Albin Liedgren
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It usually works great. Your grannen has a handle on things.
 
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Workingclasshero and 1 other
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Regarding the concrete, it absolutely works, but personally, I find it hard to justify since it becomes even better with "correctly" mixed concrete. What is unlikely to work, however, is buried footings 400 mm deep for a fence. (Unless it becomes a very low "fence")
 
B
Pillars are 50 cm. Say 5 cm sticking out.
But they are buried 10 cm from the L-wall they stand by so I absolutely believe that will work.

Even on open ground, 50cm-pillars are enough for fencing. Especially if concrete is poured around and sets, which it apparently does.

But shouldn't it not take long for the concrete to set underground?
 
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B byron v2 said:
But shouldn't it take a long time for the concrete to cure underground
Regardless of how you do it, the concrete has to cure down in the ground, right? Longer curing time is better for strength, so technically it's not a problem. The strength might not be completely optimal given the procedure, but probably good enough to hold a fence post.

There are ready-made products based on the same approach:
https://www.combimix.com/se/produkter/betong/betonggjutning/plintbetong
 
B
I've noticed that the neighbor has been watering quite a bit a few times.
Once last night, once this morning, and a sprinkle at lunch.
Maybe he's not so dumb after all, haha!
A bit odd perhaps
 
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TechChad
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B
Now he's finished.
There are 5 posts on plinths that were complemented with 2 ground anchors and posts for some reason. 11 meters long.

The posts are fastened in the beds with heavy carriage bolts.
Stable as hell.
However, it's quite ugly with horizontal planks without spacing. 2 meters high.

I think it will be a bit more stable because he has over-dimensioned. Maybe the weight will make it settle better in the ground.

It's 11 meters long and about 2 meters high.
7 pcs 95x95 posts.
Then horizontal 28x120, 16 pieces stacked.
He added dry concrete around the plinth. Then soil and gravel in some unclear mixture. Watered it generously about 3 times a day for 3-4 days.

In summary:
Stable fence but quite ugly.
 
B byron v2 said:
Now he has finished.
It became 5 posts on plint that were complemented with 2 ground anchors and posts for some reason. 11 meters long.

The posts are attached to the plant beds with thick carriage bolts.
Stable as hell.
However, quite ugly with horizontal boards without gaps. 2m high.

I think it will be a bit more stable because he over-dimensioned. Maybe the weight makes it settle better into the ground.

It is 11 meters long and about 2 meters high.
7 pcs 95x95 posts.
Then horizontal 28x120, 16 pieces on top of each other.
He says dry concrete around the pedestal. Then earth and gravel in some unclear mixture. Watered heavily about 3 times/day for 3 -4 days

In summary:
Stable fence but quite ugly
That's what we in technical terms call a polackgjutning.
 
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C.Lundin
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B
Which of the different stages is launch and what are the advantages/disadvantages?
 
B
P Prodigys said:
That's what we in technical jargon call "polackgjutning."
Is it completely terrible or just generally sloppy?
 
B byron v2 said:
Is it completely bad or just generally sloppy
I have cast 8-meter high lampposts that way and they are still standing. But just like all other methods, it can be done properly and sloppily.
 
Sloppy and sloppy... The biggest problem when doing things yourself as an amateur is that you overwork by a factor of 5-10 to be sure it works.
 
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pve
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Magnus E K
The boring part comes when in the future, you have to dig up and reuse the plintarna.
 
ClasseClas
As stated in the thread, there is something called plintbetong which should be poured dry into the hole, so it might be perfectly fine to do so.

"Plintbetong is a no-mix concrete used for lighter castings such as posts for fences, mailboxes, drying racks, and similar items. For casting fence posts, drying racks, mailboxes, or similar. Plintbetong should not be used in casting tubes or molds. Should not be mixed. Must not be used in load-bearing constructions.

Application
Place the object to be cast in the hole. Pour the dry powder around it and fix the object by tamping gently around it. Pour the intended amount of water onto the dry powder at a pace that allows it to be absorbed. Depending on the temperature, the mix begins to set after 2–15 minutes."


https://www.bauhaus.se/plintbetong-20kg
 
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Magnus E K Magnus E K said:
The boring part will be when in the future you have to dig up and reuse the foundations.
Angle grinder to the metal rods, possibly a sledgehammer and two hits on the foundation so the top cracks. Then you can plant grass.

You wouldn't reuse foundations for a few hundred kronor.
 
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tobbbias and 1 other
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