Start by looking at the roof. With a bit of luck, you’ll see any suspicious cracks or similar issues.

If you don’t feel like replacing the roof right now, it might be possible to treat the roof with roof coating and thus extend its lifespan.

http://takmassa.se/
 
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Going to buy a tarp tomorrow that covers the entire roof and a number of thick poles to lay on to hold it, a few screws, nails, and a good mood so maybe it will stay tight until spring.
It can always be used for something when the roof is fixed, maybe a swing for the grandchildren, one of those tall ones with a good thrill.:)
I'm a bit indecisive about whether I should turn on the heat or if it's better with just the dehumidifier.:confused:
Warm air holds more moisture and rises, at the same time the air becomes drier when heated.:confused:
If it were possible to heat the air and simultaneously prevent it from rising and condensing on the roof while letting the dehumidifier take care of it, that would probably be the best.
 
If you need to repair the surfaces indoors, you must open up anyway, then you can cut the vapor barrier, remove the insulation, and take a look. This will give you an idea of approximately where the water is coming from. But the first step is, of course, to go up on the roof and take a look. Check all the joints, any that have come loose? Then you have a leak there for sure. But don't stop searching when you've found one, there may be more ;)

It can't be helped, you have a leak, and it must be fixed. The longer you wait, the more damage you will have to deal with. So find the leak and repair it. If it doesn't feel doable, get help from a professional.
 
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pelpet said:
Start by looking at the roof. With a bit of luck, you will see some suspicious cracks or the like.

If you don't feel like replacing the roof right now, it might be possible to treat the roof with roofing compound and thereby extend its lifespan.

[link]
Mmmm, but there is a lot that is suspicious, many seams have come loose. Many are blistering, but I care less about them as long as they are intact, however, there are some that have collapsed, not good.
Feels like I need to tear off the papp to guarantee the wellbeing of the råspont.:(
 
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thomasx said:
If you need to repair the indoor surfaces, you'll need to open up anyway, then you can cut the vapor barrier, remove the insulation, and take a look. That way, you'll get an idea of where the water is coming from. But the first step is, of course, to get up on the roof and take a look. Check all the joints, has any come loose? Then you definitely have a leak there. But don't stop looking when you've found one, there might be more ;)

It can't be helped, you have a leak, and it needs to be fixed. The longer you wait, the more damage you'll have to deal with. So find the leak and fix it. If it doesn't seem doable, get help from a professional.
Sure, that's right, you could tear down inside to see where it's coming from. But it shouldn't be that easy; there's a car under ongoing work in the way. Of course, I could take a chance with a blowtorch and lots of effort to try to stop it. I went up and put plastic where I suspected it might be, so if the dripping decreases, I'd know roughly where to focus my efforts. Calling the pros might become necessary, but it's not the first option. They will likely clear out, and where should I put the car, and how, and all my stuff? :|
 
The simplest might be to call a company that works with welded paper roofs and simply ask them to replace the paper. That way, you avoid tearing down inside the garage.
 
Yes, if there are several seams that have come loose, then it's high time to replace the roofing felt. And if you're going to buy a tarpaulin, buy a proper PVC tarpaulin at 600-650 grams, that's, IMO, the only tarp quality that suffices, especially if it's going to be there for a while. You can use some stones as weights. And yes, if you're going to put on such a tarpaulin, it might be a good idea to lift the roofing felt and take a look now. I understand you've been up on the roof and checked. You didn't step through anywhere? That's a good sign, then maybe the råspont will be fine :)

Dehumidifiers are good tools, provided the conditions are okay, at least 15 degrees warm, preferably 20, and no ventilation. Then one of those will dry things up quickly. But keep in mind that if you haven't opened up the inner ceiling and vapor barrier, there won't be much drying effect inside the roof.
 
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A tarp of that caliber is very expensive, I chose a 180gr one, I think it will suffice for a month. For that reason, I plan to use 90x90 beams at 4.5m in length to hold it in place, in addition to securing it to the exterior walls around.

I just checked and it has stopped dripping, the water puddles on the floor and the car had also dried up, so there is a possibility that the leak is under the plastic I laid yesterday. On the other hand, it stopped raining last night.

The idea that dehumidifiers don't work below a certain temperature should be taken with a grain of salt. The more expensive ones might not, but that's probably because the function is built-in. I have several, but the cheapest Wasco from Harald N works down to zero, maybe colder, but I haven't tried it; I'm afraid the container might freeze and break.

A roofer is a good idea, but first I want to secure the roof.
 
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ion said:
A tarpaulin of that caliber is very expensive, I chose a 180gr, I think it will suffice for a month. For that reason, I was thinking of using 90x90 4.5m lengths to keep it in place in addition to fastening it to the outer walls around it.
I just checked, and it has stopped dripping, the puddles on the floor, and the car also dried out, so there is a possibility that the leak is under the plastic I put yesterday. On the other hand, it stopped raining last night.
This thing about dehumidifiers not working below a certain temperature should be taken with a grain of salt. The more expensive ones might not, but that is likely because the function is built-in. I have several different ones, but the cheapest Wasco from Harald N works down to zero, maybe colder, but I haven't tested it, I'm afraid the container will freeze and break.
A roofer is a good idea, but first, I want to secure the roof.
buy an expensive one, and there are multiple uses. cheap is used once and then throw away.
 
What were you thinking now?

Such a tarp probably costs around 3000:-

What do your 90x90*4.5m cost, because you haven't bought just one, have you?
And they are almost worthless afterwards, a PVC-tarp you can sell on blocket and almost get your money back.
 
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thomasx said:
What were you thinking?

Such a tarp costs about 3000:-.

How much do your 90x90*4.5m cost, because you haven’t just bought one, have you?
And they are almost worthless afterwards, a PVC tarp you can sell on Blocket and almost get your money back.
Counting on 7 pieces and they will make a very nice swing set later, so they will certainly be more useful than a 5x9 m tarp.
95x95 is 44kr/m, of course it adds up, maybe can go down to 70x70 for 23.5kr/m, depends on what they weigh, on the other hand, you can screw them together. 70x70 should be good enough for a swing too.
(I don't like selling on Blocket, too much haggling, either you feel cheated or you get annoyed).
 
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I might have been lucky, it's raining now but not leaking. It might be the seams on three sections that are not tight, if that's the case, I can glue them as soon as it gets dry. But I see it as a warning bell, I need to lay new surface felt. The question is whether you can lay it on top of the old one, I read somewhere that you could, can you rely on that?

I was thinking of laying the surface felt horizontally, I don't see any advantages to having it vertically. Is there any explanation for why the decking should be laid horizontally and the surface felt vertically? The only thing would be that it's easier to nail the decking up, otherwise, I can only see the disadvantage.

Now I found a good work description for the roof: http://epi.byggmax.com/Documents/Produktspec/17/Monteringsanvisning Glaciär Ytpapp 17240 17280.pdf Horizontally, as I want it, but can it go directly on the old one?

Sigh, when will I learn to read properly.:o
"The substrate must be clean, smooth, and dry. If the substrate consists of old roofing felt, it must be adjusted before you lay a new waterproof layer. Any blisters should be cut open. Fill the edges with asphalt glue and nail down. Fill larger gaps with Trebolit Asphalt Putty. Sheets to be covered with felt should be cleaned with white spirit or similar. Also nail down all protruding nails. If you are unsure whether the old substrate is good enough, it's just as well to tear it off and lay new underlayment felt. That way, you can also check the underlying roof construction."

The matter is settled.
 
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