Need help with unloading/carrying for a patio door. Have searched the forum and read similar threads but would like to ensure that I am thinking correctly. Also tried to get a sensible answer from construction advice at building supply stores and carpenters about the dimension for a load-bearing beam but haven't received clear answers. Planning to install the door over the Easter weekend, so it's time to decide how it should be done.
The house is a 1.5-story house built in 1944, and the walls consist of vertical tongued planks, estimating the thickness of the planks to be about 75-85mm. Inside the wall, there is a paper to reduce drafts and tretex, outside it seems to be an air gap, some type of board, and plaster. The door will be located on the gable on the ground floor and not on the longitudinal walls where the roof trusses rest.
The door is a double door with frame outer dimensions of approximately 1400mm x approximately 2200mm. Planning to make an opening about 1450mm wide to have space for insulation and fitting margin, is 25mm on each side too much? When everything is done, I will gypsum over the tretex/inside so I can make modifications there. I don't want to touch more plaster than necessary as I do not want changes in the structure of the facade. So, I would prefer to make a load-bearing beam entirely from the inside.
Byggmax sells a 4-meter laminated beam with dimensions of 56x225mm that I plan to use.
Planning to do the following:
Open up the tretex where the door and beam will be placed.
"Rout"/chisel a notch in the wall as deep as the beam is thick and 300mm extra on each side of the hole for the door, so a total of about 2050mm wide. Planning to make the notch using a circular saw and chisel according to the principle of sawing densely and then breaking off the remaining material and smoothing with a chisel.
Then glue the surface inside the notch with construction adhesive, place the beam, press it up with wedges, screw it into place right through to the remains of the wall behind and angle screw to the sides with heavy screws.
Then make the opening under the load-bearing beam for the door and install the door.
My question is, is the dimension 56x225 sufficient, or should I go thicker?
Does it work to do it as planned, or is there a better way to approach the problem?
Is 300mm overlap on each side of the door sufficient?
No pictures at the moment but might arrange during the week.
The house is a 1.5-story house built in 1944, and the walls consist of vertical tongued planks, estimating the thickness of the planks to be about 75-85mm. Inside the wall, there is a paper to reduce drafts and tretex, outside it seems to be an air gap, some type of board, and plaster. The door will be located on the gable on the ground floor and not on the longitudinal walls where the roof trusses rest.
The door is a double door with frame outer dimensions of approximately 1400mm x approximately 2200mm. Planning to make an opening about 1450mm wide to have space for insulation and fitting margin, is 25mm on each side too much? When everything is done, I will gypsum over the tretex/inside so I can make modifications there. I don't want to touch more plaster than necessary as I do not want changes in the structure of the facade. So, I would prefer to make a load-bearing beam entirely from the inside.
Byggmax sells a 4-meter laminated beam with dimensions of 56x225mm that I plan to use.
Planning to do the following:
Open up the tretex where the door and beam will be placed.
"Rout"/chisel a notch in the wall as deep as the beam is thick and 300mm extra on each side of the hole for the door, so a total of about 2050mm wide. Planning to make the notch using a circular saw and chisel according to the principle of sawing densely and then breaking off the remaining material and smoothing with a chisel.
Then glue the surface inside the notch with construction adhesive, place the beam, press it up with wedges, screw it into place right through to the remains of the wall behind and angle screw to the sides with heavy screws.
Then make the opening under the load-bearing beam for the door and install the door.
My question is, is the dimension 56x225 sufficient, or should I go thicker?
Does it work to do it as planned, or is there a better way to approach the problem?
Is 300mm overlap on each side of the door sufficient?
No pictures at the moment but might arrange during the week.
Your approach is completely correct. Keep in mind that you must fasten all upright planks to the beam.
Regarding the dimension, it entirely depends on whether there are floor joists against this gable; if not, your beam is enormously oversized.
If there are floor joists, I need to know the distance between them to calculate correctly, but the beam you mentioned can support a floor joist with a 3.5m span at least.
Regarding the dimension, it entirely depends on whether there are floor joists against this gable; if not, your beam is enormously oversized.
If there are floor joists, I need to know the distance between them to calculate correctly, but the beam you mentioned can support a floor joist with a 3.5m span at least.
Thank you for your response Huggan!
I will try to answer to the best of my ability regarding the floor joists. The upper floor rests on a floor frame that runs parallel to the trusses. There should also be a beam on the gable wall that absorbs the force from the "end" of the floor. I recall that the span between these is about 1 meter, the same as the trusses, the floor feels stable, it does not flex or anything like that.
The frame on the ground floor runs parallel to the frame on the upper floor.
To ease my mind, I would rather over-dimension, but it would be positive if I could go down a notch in dimension. I discovered when I got home today that the circular saw cuts precisely 56mm deep with some effort and a tailwind. It would be great if 42x180 glulam would be sufficient.
I will try to answer to the best of my ability regarding the floor joists. The upper floor rests on a floor frame that runs parallel to the trusses. There should also be a beam on the gable wall that absorbs the force from the "end" of the floor. I recall that the span between these is about 1 meter, the same as the trusses, the floor feels stable, it does not flex or anything like that.
The frame on the ground floor runs parallel to the frame on the upper floor.
To ease my mind, I would rather over-dimension, but it would be positive if I could go down a notch in dimension. I discovered when I got home today that the circular saw cuts precisely 56mm deep with some effort and a tailwind. It would be great if 42x180 glulam would be sufficient.
Curious about how this went, how you proceeded, as I'm in the same situation except that the floor joists on the upper floor are positioned perpendicular to the roof trusses, which have an internal spacing of 80 cm in a house built in 1934.
Leaning towards milling/sawing/chiseling out a 3-inch plank wall and embedding a glulam beam. So what dimensions did you end up with and how do you think the result turned out?
Leaning towards milling/sawing/chiseling out a 3-inch plank wall and embedding a glulam beam. So what dimensions did you end up with and how do you think the result turned out?
B Booone said:
Bumping the thread
Keyboardcowboy said: