F
We want to lay granite tiles in front of and under the stove that we will install. It's just an area of about 1 sqm (0.8x1.3 m). The substrate is 22 mm chipboard on wooden joists with 600 mm spacing. The height of the adjacent wooden floor is about 16-17 mm. We would like the granite to be somewhat level with the wooden floor (maybe a maximum of 2-3 mm higher?) and only have a silicone joint between the granite and wooden floor. Granite tiles usually seem to be 10 mm thick. However, we have not chosen these yet. I don't know how much the adhesive builds up - 2-3 mm? How would you solve the construction?

1. Renovation gypsum board 6 mm + adhesive + tiles -> about 18 mm
2. Fermacell fiber gypsum board 10 mm + adhesive + tiles -> about 22 mm
3. Fiber-reinforced levelling compound 5-6 mm + adhesive + tiles -> about 18 mm
4. Fiber-reinforced levelling compound with reinforcement 6-7 mm + adhesive + tiles -> about 19 mm

Or in another way? I don't want to tear up the chipboard and add more joists.
 
I lowered the chipboard to the level of the floor joists and filled with mesh to provide sufficient support for the tile floor and level with the parquet.
 
F
Ok. Does my sketch below match how you lowered the chipboard? In my case, the floor joists don't align well with the area I want to lay tiles on. I don't know if your solution means I have to lower a larger area than desired and then use self-leveling compound up to the chipboard height again over the entire area and a bit more on the area where I will lay the tiles. The weakened divided chipboard is compensated by the reinforced layer of self-leveling compound. Sketch of a flooring setup with beams and supports for lowering particle board, related to floor leveling for tiling.
 
Claes Sörmland
It's such a small area that needs to be stiffened, so can't you switch to a thinner but slightly more exclusive material than plaster/filler?

Go to the tinsmith/blacksmith and buy a 0.8X1.3 m sheet (maybe with a fine checkered surface or perforated with holes for the fix?) in solid material and glue it with construction adhesive onto the floor chipboard. It only builds a few mm but becomes really stiff to tile on, I think.
 
F Frågan said:
Does my sketch below match how you lowered the chipboard?
Yes, exactly. It got super stable for the stove and at the same time, I opened up a hole for the intake air in the floor as well if you need that.
 
F
Claes Sörmland Claes Sörmland said:
Go to the sheet metal worker/blacksmith and buy a 0.8X1.3 m sheet
Tempting option to glue a sheet in place. As mentioned, it's not such a large area. Has anyone tried this or a similar solution?
 
A steel plate can expand from heat radiation.
 
Claes Sörmland
Stefan N Stefan N said:
A steel plate can expand due to heat radiation.
How large is the expansion? I read that the coefficient of linear expansion is around 12*10^-6 mm per degree and meter for steel and roughly the same for dry concrete. So does it differ in reality from tiling on a concrete-based slab?

Apparently, there are systems to do this anyway:

https://kakelspecialisten.se/kakelklubben/systemloesningar/keramik-pa-metall
 
I have no clue at all really, it was more of a suggestion to check so nothing goes wrong.
 
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Claes Sörmland
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F
Right now, it's leaning towards the sheet metal. I need to check if I can find a suitable sheet. As a second option, I'm considering cutting a series of 3-5 mm deep grooves in the particle board with a circular saw. Then using a chisel to remove the chips. After that, self-level with mesh.
 
An important factor in this context is the weight of the stove. We have a stove ourselves that weighs 550 kg, and we reinforced the base plate by making it 200 mm instead of 100 mm where the stove would be placed.
 
Sheet metal, I think, is a bad idea, at least at the thickness you want. To make it torsionally rigid, it should probably be 8-10mm. You typically estimate a 13mm construction height with tiles and adhesive if the slab is 7-8mm, so maybe 15mm in your case. The alternatives are to float with a mesh, which gives about a 28mm total height, or to take a chance with a flexible adhesive. From experience, I can only recommend doing it properly, as there's a lot of movement around a heavy stove with a lot of radiant heat.
 
BirgitS
F Frågan said:
only have a silicone seal between granite and wooden floor.
Has anyone done that?
I wonder what happens when the wooden floor moves throughout the year depending on how the humidity varies. Normally, you have closer to a cm movement margin along walls and other fixed objects.
 
F
BirgitS BirgitS said:
Has anyone done it?
We have in (in another house). Maybe not silicone but some type of soft sealant anyway. Works fine.
 
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