We have just started renovating our kitchen and discovered that the walls are made of standing timber (!). Can anyone explain why standing timber is used? The house was built in 1926.

Then some logs are eaten or decayed. Does anyone know what it is?

Do you think it's okay to whitewash the nice parts of the walls?

Thanks, comrades!
 
  • Partially stripped kitchen wall showing standing timber, with peeled wallpaper debris on the floor, a ladder, and a door leading to another room.
  • Close-up of a wooden wall with standing timber; some logs are decayed, showing signs of age and weathering.
  • Standing timber wall partially decayed, showing rot or damage in a 1926 house kitchen renovation. Exposed wood with surrounding insulation and wiring.
I don't really know why, but we also have standing timber in our summer cottage where they tore it down and put it up from another older building.

It can surely become nicely rustic to whitewash or perhaps even better to paint white on some visible wall or part of a wall where it fits,
 
Gammelnörden
The reason is that one could make narrower yet stable walls between two or more doors and windows. Walls in log buildings should be more than 50 cm to maintain their stability. Whole houses made of restimmer became common in cities at the end of the 1800s because it was quicker to build and allowed for more tall windows closely placed on the facade according to the architectural fashion of the time.
 
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BirgitS
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Then I'm with you! Thanks for the answers.

It might look nicer to paint white when it's a bit old and worn like in our case, rather than using a glaze. Maybe sand a little lightly and fill in some spots before painting.

Then it will be OSB + gypsum + wallpaper and tiles on the other walls.

What do you think about the damage, by the way? Has it been wet, or are insects responsible at some point in time?

Best regards,
Micke
 
M Mikeson said:
Then I'm with you! Thanks for the answers.

It might look nicer to paint it white when it's a bit old and worn as it is in our case, rather than glazing. Sand lightly and fill in some spots before painting maybe.

Then it's OSB + gypsum + wallpaper and tiles on the other walls.

What do you think about the damage, by the way? Has it been wet or were insects at work at some point in time?

Regards
Micke
Looks like insects were at work, once upon a time.
Now it seems dry.
Glazing might look nice, maybe use a dark stain? Looks nice against light floors/ceiling :D
 
P Pappa1986 said:
It looks like insects have been at work, once upon a time. Now it seems dry. It would probably look nice with a glaze, maybe go with a dark stain? It would look good against the light floor/ceiling :D
Good idea. We were thinking of white. But now that you mention it. Our countertop will be dark brown, so it might match nicely. Hmm
 
M Mikeson said:
Then I'm with you! Thanks for the answers

Maybe it looks nicer to paint white when it's a bit old and worn like it is in our case, rather than staining. Sand lightly and fill in a bit here and there before painting perhaps.

Then it will be OSB + gypsum + wallpaper and tiles on the other walls.

By the way, what do you think about the damage? Has it been wet or have insects been at work at some point in time?

Greetings
Micke
How big are the holes?
Are the holes a bit elongated and about 5 mm? Then it might be longhorn beetle. If the holes are small, about 2 mm, it could be tenacious wood-boring beetle. The latter is preferable. When it becomes everyday, I think you should bring in a suitable company to check. Longhorn beetle causes damage that can affect structural integrity.
Nothing that can't be fixed though.
 
M Mikeson said:
Good idea. We were planning to have white. But now that you mention it, our countertop will be dark brown, so it might match nicely perhaps. Hmm
I think that sounds like a good idea.
Herdins floor glaze, dark brown is recommended. Really nice. Both on floors and walls
 
The damage in image 2 looks like husbock. The husbock prefers dry environments and sparsely grown spruce. The husbock is mainly found in the Baltic Sea regions. The presence of husbock is primarily an insurance issue, rather than a structural integrity problem.
 
Okay. Thanks for the tips!

Do you have any tips on what can be used to fill in larger holes/uneven surfaces and such so it looks nice when you paint/laser it afterwards?
 
M Mikeson said:
Okay. Thanks for the tips!

Do you have any suggestions on what to use to fill larger holes/irregularities so that it looks nice when you paint/stain it afterward?
Brush off with a brush ä, then you just need to launch.
Or, what holes are we talking about?
 
P Pappa1986 said:
Brush off with a brush ä, then it's just to launch on.
Or, which cavities are we talking about?
Okay. Thinking about these kinds of nasties:
 
  • alt="Close-up of deteriorating wooden boards with visible rot and moisture damage.
M Mikeson said:
Okay. Thought of something like this:
Looks nice, I think. Ours was something similar before we stained it. Remove all the nails and tuck in all the "insulation" (is it called lin?) then just paint it on.
 
M Mikeson said:
Okay. I was thinking of something like these sneaky ones:
See nothing ugly there, just beautiful old timber :)
 
Wonderful to hear. Then it will be so (avoiding a lot of extra work), a bit rustic like that

Thanks for all the feedback! I'll remember to upload a picture later so you can see!
 
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Björkebo Frösön and 1 other
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