Hello!
We are renovating the kitchen at home and need to smooth out a large, deep area with unevenness where the fridge used to be. It is about 2cm deep. They are slag boards with plaster on them, where the plaster has been removed from the large area. We also need to smooth out the wall at the entrance to the kitchen where we've removed the door frame. My question is, what type of material do you think is best suited for this? Some kind of mortar? I assume it’s too deep for something like fine sand filler. We have been recommended to put up a plasterboard over the wall and then smooth it with filler, but it seems difficult to get the plasterboard to sit evenly and well over the wall with slag boards. To build up the wall where the door frame was, I assume we need to set forms and fill with some kind of mortar?
Thanks!
We are renovating the kitchen at home and need to smooth out a large, deep area with unevenness where the fridge used to be. It is about 2cm deep. They are slag boards with plaster on them, where the plaster has been removed from the large area. We also need to smooth out the wall at the entrance to the kitchen where we've removed the door frame. My question is, what type of material do you think is best suited for this? Some kind of mortar? I assume it’s too deep for something like fine sand filler. We have been recommended to put up a plasterboard over the wall and then smooth it with filler, but it seems difficult to get the plasterboard to sit evenly and well over the wall with slag boards. To build up the wall where the door frame was, I assume we need to set forms and fill with some kind of mortar?
Thanks!
Similar situation due to wall demolition and I have repaired large damages like this in a 1930s house with the same material it once was - lime mortar.
Using the same mortar is probably not a bad idea in old houses, I think. It's messy but cheap, and after a little practice, it's quite possible to apply the mortar (it should be "thrown on"!). Scrape off with a board, etc. (read up on how to do it, it's not that hard and forgiving - so dare to try and buy twice as much mortar as you think). I wasn't as skilled as people were in the past - so I used a wide putty knife to get an even surface. Then I rolled regular wall paint - it turned out really well and no cracks, etc. 5 years later. Lime mortar should be forgiving when in contact with the old.
I also used lime mortar in the ceiling in the same situation, with steel mesh, etc. Exciting to throw mortar up on the ceiling... an expert said, "You'll probably need 6 bags for your ceiling damage - but you'll need at least 12." It took 18 bags of mortar for the ceiling damage... gravity does its thing.
Good luck - and dare to use lime mortar where it once was!
Using the same mortar is probably not a bad idea in old houses, I think. It's messy but cheap, and after a little practice, it's quite possible to apply the mortar (it should be "thrown on"!). Scrape off with a board, etc. (read up on how to do it, it's not that hard and forgiving - so dare to try and buy twice as much mortar as you think). I wasn't as skilled as people were in the past - so I used a wide putty knife to get an even surface. Then I rolled regular wall paint - it turned out really well and no cracks, etc. 5 years later. Lime mortar should be forgiving when in contact with the old.
I also used lime mortar in the ceiling in the same situation, with steel mesh, etc. Exciting to throw mortar up on the ceiling... an expert said, "You'll probably need 6 bags for your ceiling damage - but you'll need at least 12." It took 18 bags of mortar for the ceiling damage... gravity does its thing.
Good luck - and dare to use lime mortar where it once was!