2,377 views ·
44 replies
2k views
44 replies
Screwing into porous wall with air gap
I had a brief conversation with the property manager for the apartment who claimed that the interior walls consist of plaster, lightweight concrete, and reeds. The exterior walls were a bit more unclear, but when I described how I experienced it, as I described here, they thought it sounded likely. That it is about plaster, an air gap, and a "harder core" as they put it.J Jansson69 said:
Now take a wood screw and test it, there are so many ignorant people you seem to listen to!T tobiasger said:I spoke briefly with the property manager for the apartment who claimed that the interior walls consist of plaster, lightweight concrete, and vass. The exterior walls were a bit more unclear, but when I described how I experienced it, as I described it here, they thought it sounded likely. That it was about plaster, an air gap, and a "harder core," as they put it.
Sounds more like they have no idea.T tobiasger said:I had a brief chat with the property manager for the apartment who claimed that the interior walls consist of plaster, lightweight concrete, and reed. The exterior walls were a bit more unclear, but when I described how I perceived it, as I described it here, they thought it sounded likely. That it thus involved plaster, air gap, and a "harder core" as they put it.
If it turns red when you drill into the wall, it's brick. If it doesn't, then it's something else.
Yes, I've experienced that it dusts and dirties the surface quite a bit when I've drilled into brick before, but nothing I notice afterward or thought about when I drilled. But I'll double-check this tomorrow!G grovspacklarn said:
There is no reason to have reed mat on either brick or lightweight concrete as these materials are plastered directly on. Reed mat is a plaster carrier used on wooden walls/plank walls that could then be plastered with mortar.
Got it. But as I mentioned earlier, if it had been wood, wouldn't the Elfa plug have worked earlier? As I said, I drilled 6 mm and could relatively easily tap in the 8 mm plug afterward. And then the screw never held.J Jansson69 said:
I also tried, as mentioned, to screw directly into the wall first, but with the accompanying screws from Elfa and not wood screws, and that didn't hold either and felt loose.
It's either a cloison wall that I have linked to.T tobiasger said:Got it. But as I mentioned earlier, if it had been wood, shouldn't the Elfa plug have worked earlier? As I said, I drilled 6 mm and could relatively easily hammer in an 8 mm plug afterward. And then the screw never held.
I also tried, as mentioned, to screw directly into the wall first, but with the screws provided by Elfa and not wood screws, and that didn't hold either and felt loose.
Or lightweight concrete with plaster, in which case you need lightweight concrete plugs.
But you need to figure out the construction before you can proceed with the correct mounting method.
Because you have drilled into the wall and no brick dust, often red from red brick, has appeared.
What kind of facade do you have on the outside?
It's brick. Then there is, for lack of knowledge and technical terms, a bit “blurred” as if some kind of fix has been applied over the brick so that the contours of the stones are not so sharp. But definitely bricks. Completely irrelevant perhaps, but that's how it looks.J Jansson69 said:
Do you have any pictures?T tobiasger said:
I have been involved in a multi-story building where inside a solid two-brick wall they had nailed up a splinter panel and then a reed mat with plaster, this is not a very common method but I guess it was done with some thought to a bit of insulating effect with the air gap that the panel on the inside creates...
Thinking if you might have something similar...
When you test wood screws, use at least 5x90mm screws...