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Hello

I am messing around with self-leveling compound in the boiler room and wondering if there should be a slope on the surface where the tank itself stands?

That would make the tank tilt a bit since it has a flat bottom?
 
Fall is good if you plan to have water on the floor, otherwise it's not needed. The tank can be propped up, I had to do that due to an uneven floor.
 
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D09
Having quite a good/heavy fall right now but became unsure about how it will be with the tank.

The tank has a flat bottom and will then become a bit unevenly loaded :/

Sometimes it's better to go to the sea ;)
 
I used round tanks and they have a rim around them and that doesn't amount to many kilos in my case with 750-liter tanks.
 
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I'm thinking of building a frame and casting a concrete footing about 5-10 cm under the tank, with a "moat" against the interior wall for any potential water leak, and then laying a 10 cm thick S200 foam board for the tank to stand on. 20 cm regular insulation around and up to the ceiling.

The boiler should just stand evenly. That means the slope starts about 20 cm from the boiler.

This should be enough, so I can avoid my headache later ;) I'm not stressed at all, haha.
 
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A foam plastic s200 has 80 degrees as the limit, should be enough to lie at the bottom?
 
Sure, I would like to have insulation that can handle close to 100 degrees. 80 degrees is no problem to heat up to.
 
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smurfen72 said:
I would definitely like insulation that can handle closer to 100 degrees, 80 degrees is no problem to heat up to.
Checked S300, all have a limit of 80 degrees. But do you reach 80 degrees at the bottom of a tank? :)
 
But there is other insulation like mineral wool that should work. Of course, you get 80 degrees throughout the whole tank, you're not just going to use parts of it :)
 
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smurfen72 said:
But there is other insulation, rock wool should work. Of course, you get 80 degrees in the whole tank, you're not just going to use parts of it :)
But then you build up with something, I guess? Otherwise, the rock wool would be very flat? :)

Excuse my ignorance, ha ha
 
It's probably best that way.
 
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It became cellplast s200.

I will fix them evenly and cast it in with about 8 cm on top.

Close to buying a form board class 250 due to better long-term load but it only withstood 70 degrees.

Then I rather shielded myself with 80 degrees and a concrete slab on top :)

Right or wrong, vettefan.
 
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Concrete floor with marked outline, a drain, and a measuring tape. A machine edge and two screwdrivers are visible near the drain opening.

How would you do it here?

I'm going to cast a plinth of 20 cm, 10 of which are polystyrene.

The black line is where the casting starts.

Should I cast in a pipe for the floor drain (like a 160 pipe cut in half) Concrete floor with an outlined drainage plan and a metal floor drain. Arrows indicate the proposed flow direction for a plumbing project. through the plinth, or move the whole setup so the floor drain is visible/accessible?

The advantage of casting in a pipe for the floor drain is that it reduces the amount of piping (cheaper installation) and provides more insulation around the tank.

The downside is that access to the floor drain becomes limited.

If I move the setup, the pros and cons are the opposite...

What do you think?
 
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Foam insulation board on a concrete floor with a cutout for a red pipe, viewed in an unfinished room with bare walls and a tripod in the corner.
 
it can easily become a lot of debris in a boiler room that can settle in the floor drain, it can be difficult to reach and clean.
 
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