Planning to plaster, fill, and paint a storage room.
My question is if filler (I assume fine filler is used) shrinks in screw holes and in the beveled joints after applying it with a putty knife, so you have to do it in stages?
My question is if filler (I assume fine filler is used) shrinks in screw holes and in the beveled joints after applying it with a putty knife, so you have to do it in stages?
After using the filler - Beckers Breplasta - that the painter left behind once, I will never use anything else.
It's just like with ceiling paint: It's worth the extra pennies to go for professional materials!
A beginner's mistake is also not holding the spatula at the right angle on the last stroke. What many call "sinking" is actually the filler that has flexed in...
It's just like with ceiling paint: It's worth the extra pennies to go for professional materials!
A beginner's mistake is also not holding the spatula at the right angle on the last stroke. What many call "sinking" is actually the filler that has flexed in...
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It's probably mostly due to the lack of knowledge of the person doing the filling, I was personally recommended by my paint dealer to buy byggmax filler and have nothing to complain about.MaZtoR said:
A plus with the byggmax filler is that the dust seems to be heavier than with other filler brands, which means it doesn't spread as much.
I think Beckers LH or Dalapro are good. Plaster for gypsum is not really an option for filling new gypsum, then you'd need an extra person just for mixing.
The painter who plastered my extension used either two coats of gypsum filler and then a coat of sand filler, or one coat of gypsum filler and two coats of sand filler, depending on whether it was seams between boards or some minor filling. For screw holes and full-surface filling, he used sand filler.