Size of load-bearing/non-load-bearing interior walls

[farmis]

Hello!

I'm finalizing some drawings for the single-story house we are going to build and have some questions about the thickness of interior walls, both load-bearing and non-load-bearing

Non-load-bearing interior wall
Will the following 118 mm construction work as a non-load-bearing interior wall to exclude sound between the rooms? I assume that you can't use 70 mm insulation and must go with 45 mm insulation to leave room for the electrician?

- 13 mm drywall
- 11 mm OSB
- 45x70 mm stud + XX mm insulation
- 11 mm OSB
- 13 mm drywall

I almost considered using a 45x95 stud instead and increasing the thickness of the construction to 143 mm instead to ensure sound insulation. The problem here is that the door frame becomes unusually thick if you use this construction throughout a 200 sqm house.

Load-bearing interior wall
The house will have ordinary scissors roof trusses and W-trusses throughout, so it may be enough with a 168 mm construction or 193 mm in total;

- 13 mm drywall
- 11 mm OSB
- 45x120 stud or 45x145 stud + XX mm insulation
- 11 mm OSB
- 13 mm drywall

The same applies here. To leave room for the electrician, what dimension of insulation should be used?

 

[Huddingebo]

Load-bearing interior walls 45x120 really feel excessive, 45x95 CC60 is easily enough unless you're building a very extreme house. I even think 45x70 suffices... They only need to support the floor structure in the attic/upper floor. There are even houses with 45*70 load-bearing exterior walls.

 

[Svanteman]

Simply take down the wall and let the electrician do his work before you insulate, so you can fit in as much as possible before doubling.
But keep in mind that it's only the boom sound within the wall itself that you reduce with insulation inside the wall; if it's for sound coming in or out, an additional gypsum board is often much better.

Thickness is no issue with frames; extensions are always necessary.

Otherwise, I agree with earlier comments that it sounds like very sturdy walls with 120... 95 is sufficient for most things.

 

[farmis]

Simply put up the wall and let the electrician do their work before you insulate, that way you can fit in as much as possible before doubling. But remember, insulation in the wall only reduces the sound within the wall itself; for sound coming in or going out, an additional gypsum board is often much better.

The thickness isn't a problem with door frames, adding extensions is always necessary.

Otherwise, I agree with the previous comment that it sounds like very sturdy walls with 120... 95 is sufficient for most things.

What would you suggest though for non-load-bearing interior walls? A total dimension of 118 mm (i.e., 45x70 mm studs) or 143 mm (i.e., 45x95 mm studs)? Anything over 118 mm feels very wide visually when looking at a door frame.

 

[Låset]

What would you suggest regarding non-bearing interior walls? A total dimension of 118 mm (i.e., 45x70 mm stud) or 143 mm (i.e., 45x95 mm stud)? Everything over 118 mm feels very wide visually when looking at a door frame.

We are currently building with 70s studs and plasterboard + OSB on both sides. I have been in houses with that construction, and they seem quiet to me. I don't know how much more sound insulation you achieve with a 95s stud. My experience is that the sound comes in through the door, so make sure to have good sound insulation there if you want a quiet house.

 

[Magnus E K]

If there is a regular interior door in the wall, it will usually be the weakest link and probably overkill to build the wall in any other way than your first suggestion. If there is no door, it will be quietest to build it as two separate walls with insulation in between, so that the frames do not become "sound bridges."

 

[Johan456]

70-insulation goes well to a 70-rule even though the electrician is coming, it's normal. You insulate afterwards.

 

[farmis]

If there is a regular interior door in the wall, it will usually be the weakest link and it's probably overkill to build the wall in any other way than your first suggestion. If there is no door, the quietest solution is to build two separate walls with insulation in between, so that the studs don't become "sound bridges".

Hmm, I don't quite understand your latter suggestion when there is no door. Could you elaborate on what you mean?

 

[Magnus E K]

Hmm, I don't quite understand your later suggestion when there is no door. Could you explain further what you mean?

Like an apartment-separating wall but without needing as thick studs or meeting additional fire requirements. See for example: https://www.traguiden.se/konstrukti...mkomplettering/ej-barande-vaggar/innervaggar/

 

[justusandersson]

With scissor trusses and W trusses in a single-story house, there is no need for load-bearing interior walls. The best sound reduction is usually achieved with a double and staggered stud construction. There is no reason to use studs thicker than 45x70, but the construction itself requires some space.