Hello, we are in the process of getting municipal water/sewer at our summer cottage. I was thinking of using the existing pipes from our kitchen area to the sewer to avoid rebuilding since this cottage might be demolished in the near future and replaced with new construction. The cottage is on stilts, so the pipes go through the floor and lie directly above ground, as the land is sloping.
My question is about the dimensions of the sewer pipes that are typically used. Without measuring, it looks like a hose of 40-50mm comes from the sewer, so I would like to connect and extend it to the well I will have for the municipal sewer.
Can/should I splice the same dimension, or should I increase the dimension from this pipe? Because I assume there are connections that go from these dimensions to larger ones. Or can/should one make some type of pipe-in-pipe solution where you place this pipe in a larger one and then ensure it is sealed at the entrance?
Is there any chance it could freeze?
I'm a bit lost on matters like this.
My question is about the dimensions of the sewer pipes that are typically used. Without measuring, it looks like a hose of 40-50mm comes from the sewer, so I would like to connect and extend it to the well I will have for the municipal sewer.
Can/should I splice the same dimension, or should I increase the dimension from this pipe? Because I assume there are connections that go from these dimensions to larger ones. Or can/should one make some type of pipe-in-pipe solution where you place this pipe in a larger one and then ensure it is sealed at the entrance?
Is there any chance it could freeze?
I'm a bit lost on matters like this.
Run 110 mm for everything outside the house and on the main pipes inside the house and to the WC. Use 75 mm for floor drains and preferably as far as possible to sinks, washbasins, etc. For the final section to the sink, it's often just 50 mm to save space behind kitchen cabinets, etc. There are connectors that allow your 40 mm hose to fit 50 mm pipes.
As long as the drainage slope is reasonable outdoors, there usually isn't a high risk of freezing (the water doesn't remain long enough to freeze and instead flows into the municipal system). However, to be safe, you can always place slabs of ground insulation over the pipe.
As long as the drainage slope is reasonable outdoors, there usually isn't a high risk of freezing (the water doesn't remain long enough to freeze and instead flows into the municipal system). However, to be safe, you can always place slabs of ground insulation over the pipe.
Okay, so I attach a Muff to my 40mm pipe to 50mm, and from 50 I go as quickly as possible up to 110 which then goes into the pressure well?
I have a significant slope, so it shouldn't be a problem for it to become stagnant. If I also go from 40 up, I think it's about 2-3m that runs in 40 pipes before it becomes larger. I've never had a problem with the 40 pipe I have, with anything getting stuck when I've used it as a sink/dishwasher outlet, and then it's been with a worse slope and about a 15m transport distance to the old well.
I have a significant slope, so it shouldn't be a problem for it to become stagnant. If I also go from 40 up, I think it's about 2-3m that runs in 40 pipes before it becomes larger. I've never had a problem with the 40 pipe I have, with anything getting stuck when I've used it as a sink/dishwasher outlet, and then it's been with a worse slope and about a 15m transport distance to the old well.
You don't have to go directly from 50 to 110, 110 is only needed for stacks that serve many drains in the house (and WC of course). However, I recommend going from 50 to 75 quite soon.
I don't know what it looks like at the moment, but don't forget the ventilation either, it's mainly the WC that creates that need (full charge in the pipe moving forward, creates low pressure ("vacuum") behind it and sucks empty in floor drains and water traps, resulting in odor. This is solved by having a ventilation pipe on the stack near the WC, usually a pipe that goes up through the outer roof and takes in air instead.
I don't know what it looks like at the moment, but don't forget the ventilation either, it's mainly the WC that creates that need (full charge in the pipe moving forward, creates low pressure ("vacuum") behind it and sucks empty in floor drains and water traps, resulting in odor. This is solved by having a ventilation pipe on the stack near the WC, usually a pipe that goes up through the outer roof and takes in air instead.
Today the toilet consists of a modern dry toilet, which is to be replaced with a WC. But I don't think a ventilation system is needed for this drain, as I feel that it is something the construction company should have buried in connection with digging down the pressure drain. I'll have to google a bit and see what I find out =)
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