We are going to apply self-leveling compound to all the rooms in our apartment (about 50-55 sqm, 3 rooms + hallway). We have found out that it will require 3.3 tons of self-leveling compound distributed over this area. The surface is wood, and we live on the second floor of a house built sometime in the 1920s. In some places, it will be applied up to about 4-6 cm. Although reinforcement mesh will be added, how can we be sure that it will hold?
 
What is under the wooden floor?
Why are you planning to pour leveling compound over an entire apartment?
Have you received approval to do so from the Brf?
 
Common untreated wooden floor in one of the rooms and assuming it looks the same in the others. In the kitchen, there were chipboards under the plastic mats. Yes, it's okay from the brf if I can get an answer regarding the load-bearing capacity of the floors. Do I have to break up the entire floor to find out what type of beams it is built on?
 
S
are you going to tile or lay carpet throughout the entire apartment?
otherwise, you should not have to use self-leveling compound for the entire apartment.
if you're unlucky, it might take significantly more tons than you have calculated.
 
Still: Why? :confused:
 
Because there are such large elevation differences. A real roller coaster.
 
That's when you usually sand the floor....
 
Nimajneb said:
Then you usually sand the floor....
Might be a bit tough to sand away 6 cm :)
 
jeppeknaster said:
Might be a bit tough to sand off 6 cm :)
A bit sweaty I can admit, but in that case, you'd have to redirect the floor. Otherwise, it would be an absurd amount of leveling compound.
 
I don't think a wooden joist floor from that time is sized for the extra load. Why not level in the old-fashioned way with wedges and a new floor?
 
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Helioz
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It must be cheaper and easier to tear up the entire floor and install a new one.....
 
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Carl_Elvis
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Otherwise, you could screw gypsum or other boards to the floor to fill it up so that it doesn't require much spackling. I will soon face a similar project and I'm considering doing something similar. Once everything is flat, there will be sparse paneling and underfloor heating on top of that.
 
Matti_75 said:
I don't think a wooden floor structure from that time is designed for the extra load. Why not level in the good old-fashioned way with wedges and a new floor?
A bit unclear in my post, that I cannot manage this floor renovation myself... All thumbs, so to speak... But what does it mean to level with wedges and a new floor? What will this entail in terms of time and cost if I have to hire a company, which I MUST do in this case?
 
jeppeknaster said:
Otherwise, you can screw drywall or other boards onto the floor to fill it up so that you don't use too much filler. I’ll soon be facing a similar project and I'm thinking of doing something similar. Once everything is level, it will be lathing and underfloor heating on top of that.
Does this work if you have a hole/depression, where the depth is 6 cm at the lowest? Can you just fill the hole...with filler?
 
Shouldn't you consider WHY the floor has sunk like that and the appropriateness of then adding several tons of material on top of it?
 
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