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6 replies
3k views
6 replies
Saw into studs to confirm that wall is non-load-bearing?
I am in the process of taking down a wall that according to the plans might be a load-bearing heart wall, but which may not be load-bearing. The reasons for this are:
- The house is built (1976) with strong truss rafters instead of the simple rafters that the plan stipulates. The rafters seem sized for the current span.
- The vertical studs are nailed into the top plate from underneath at an angle. This leads me to believe that the wall was built after the rafters were in place. Otherwise, one would have made it easy and nailed from above?
- A while ago, I had a carpenter in the attic for another issue. He glanced at the construction and suggested that it was "probably" fine to remove the wall.
- I have carefully sawed into the studs to see if the saw "grips" or if anything sinks. After cutting a bit more and more over several days, 6 studs in a row are now cut to 80% without anything sinking or the saw gripping in the slightest.
What do you think about this? Can I take down the wall without risking life, health, and property?
- The house is built (1976) with strong truss rafters instead of the simple rafters that the plan stipulates. The rafters seem sized for the current span.
- The vertical studs are nailed into the top plate from underneath at an angle. This leads me to believe that the wall was built after the rafters were in place. Otherwise, one would have made it easy and nailed from above?
- A while ago, I had a carpenter in the attic for another issue. He glanced at the construction and suggested that it was "probably" fine to remove the wall.
- I have carefully sawed into the studs to see if the saw "grips" or if anything sinks. After cutting a bit more and more over several days, 6 studs in a row are now cut to 80% without anything sinking or the saw gripping in the slightest.
What do you think about this? Can I take down the wall without risking life, health, and property?
Often, it's not about everything collapsing as soon as a load-bearing inner wall disappears; it's rarely dimensioned that tightly.
I would dare to say that it's a bold move if you don't plan to replace the wall with a beam or something similar. However, it's difficult to help without more info.
I would dare to say that it's a bold move if you don't plan to replace the wall with a beam or something similar. However, it's difficult to help without more info.
Member
· Blekinge
· 10 117 posts
Truss roofs are built to be self-supporting, including yours. The only uncertainty is that the standards for snow load calculations (for obvious reasons) have been changed in most parts of the country. More so in certain areas, particularly in the southern half. In Västra Götaland, today's standard varies between 1.5 and 3 kN/sqm (the value of the snow load on the ground). In SBN 75, which was valid in 1976, the corresponding variation was 0.8-1. Quite a significant difference, in other words. If you're lucky, you have access to a truss drawing that specifies the snow load that was considered. Otherwise, you'll need to compare the trusses' dimensions with current ones you can find in the Träguiden online. Cutting into studs to see if a wall is load-bearing is not a method I would dare to recommend. The largest roof loads consist of snow, and it's not certain it's the maximum conditions when you cut.
Member
· Blekinge
· 10 117 posts
Then you can calmly saw down the rest of the studs as well.
HiN norfre said:I am in the process of taking down a wall that according to the plan might be a load-bearing heart wall, but possibly is not bearing. The reasons for this are:
- The house is built (1976) with heavy truss rafters instead of the simple rafters that the plan stipulates. The rafters seem sized for the current span.
- The standing studs are nailed into the wall plate at an angle from below. This makes me think the wall was built after the rafters were put in place. Otherwise, wouldn't they have made it easy on themselves and nailed from above?
- A while back, I had a carpenter in the attic for another matter. He glanced at the construction and reckoned it was "probably" just fine to remove the wall.
- I have carefully sawn into the studs to see if the saw "binds" or if anything sinks. After sawing a bit more and more over a few days, now 6 studs in a row are cut to 80% without anything sinking or the saw binding in the slightest.
What do you think of this? Can I take down the wall without risking life, health, and property?
I think, just think, that it's not a problem, but remember you have 6 studs with 20% remaining! Compressing a straight-standing stud requires extreme pressure! Much more than just a roof or upper floor.
The wall is now down. There was no pressure on any of the studs.
Had an acquaintance who is a structural engineer here a few days ago and he said it would have been obvious if the wall was load-bearing when cutting into it.
Had an acquaintance who is a structural engineer here a few days ago and he said it would have been obvious if the wall was load-bearing when cutting into it.
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