I am going to install interior doors and have started thinking about lining and door casings.
If the wall is 123 mm thick, is it appropriate to choose a frame that is 118 mm deep (the closest measurement below the wall thickness)?
I'm thinking it will be difficult to make a lining of 5 mm, so maybe it's better to choose a less deep frame?
How should I think about this?
If the wall is 123 mm thick, is it appropriate to choose a frame that is 118 mm deep (the closest measurement below the wall thickness)?
I'm thinking it will be difficult to make a lining of 5 mm, so maybe it's better to choose a less deep frame?
How should I think about this?
Best answer
Hello,
I have faced similar problems. Check carefully that the wall is plumb. For me, it became even more complicated because the walls were slanted. There's not much you can do about it, but it's good to know before starting since you can’t mount the frame at an angle. If that's the case, you must choose a frame narrow enough not to stick out on either side of the opening when it stands plumb. Test with a plank.
If it's straight and nice, I would do this: Buy 118 mm. It will leave 2.5 mm on each side if you center the frame in the opening. It might work well to add trim if you nail them carefully. If there is a gap against the frame, you can fix it with some sealant.
Another variant I've used is to align the frame with one side of the wall. Then you get a 5 mm gap against the frame on the other side. On the trims, you staple strips of masonite a few mm from the edge, primarily to have a backing to seal against. Nail up the trims. Seal carefully. It won’t show that there was a gap.
Of course, you can go with jambs; I usually use jamb strips (13 mm) and standard sealing strips (8 mm). Then you need to buy a frame that matches the measurements of the jamb, which can be difficult with your wall thickness. If the wall is crooked, it becomes a lot of puzzle with different pieces and sealing, so it’s more work and not necessarily better than the above.
When using jambs, the trims may shift sideways; it can look really nice, but first check that you don’t have switches or similar on the wall that encroach on the space.
Good luck,
DW
I have faced similar problems. Check carefully that the wall is plumb. For me, it became even more complicated because the walls were slanted. There's not much you can do about it, but it's good to know before starting since you can’t mount the frame at an angle. If that's the case, you must choose a frame narrow enough not to stick out on either side of the opening when it stands plumb. Test with a plank.
If it's straight and nice, I would do this: Buy 118 mm. It will leave 2.5 mm on each side if you center the frame in the opening. It might work well to add trim if you nail them carefully. If there is a gap against the frame, you can fix it with some sealant.
Another variant I've used is to align the frame with one side of the wall. Then you get a 5 mm gap against the frame on the other side. On the trims, you staple strips of masonite a few mm from the edge, primarily to have a backing to seal against. Nail up the trims. Seal carefully. It won’t show that there was a gap.
Of course, you can go with jambs; I usually use jamb strips (13 mm) and standard sealing strips (8 mm). Then you need to buy a frame that matches the measurements of the jamb, which can be difficult with your wall thickness. If the wall is crooked, it becomes a lot of puzzle with different pieces and sealing, so it’s more work and not necessarily better than the above.
When using jambs, the trims may shift sideways; it can look really nice, but first check that you don’t have switches or similar on the wall that encroach on the space.
Good luck,
DW
Thank you so much!
I can think that trim without latex seal is a better option.
I would have placed the frame in the middle and then routed away a small part of the trim with a hand router - to compensate.
That way, you get all the edges to sit tight and avoid the mess with latex.
I would have placed the frame in the middle and then routed away a small part of the trim with a hand router - to compensate.
That way, you get all the edges to sit tight and avoid the mess with latex.
If you have access to a milling machine or other proper tools, that is naturally the best.
Unfortunately, I don't have any nice gadgets, so you get the latex as a penalty for it.
The casings are scooped on the backside and can therefore accommodate small height differences. I'm not sure how it will be with 2.5 mm, but it might work. You would then have to nail both into the frame and the wall to pinch them tight on both sides.
Unfortunately, I don't have any nice gadgets, so you get the latex as a penalty for it.
The casings are scooped on the backside and can therefore accommodate small height differences. I'm not sure how it will be with 2.5 mm, but it might work. You would then have to nail both into the frame and the wall to pinch them tight on both sides.
The door frame must align with the bathroom wall/wet room plasterboard. Or am I missing something?
I end up with 5mm "extra" on the outside.
I end up with 5mm "extra" on the outside.
What does the wall look like? Is it a bathroom wall on one side? Are you planning to have tiles or unmounted waterproof wallpaper? Tiles/mats will add a little thickness. If you have 5 mm on the outside, the simplest method is probably masonite + latex, or alternatively, cut a trim to the correct depth. It is possible to mill away 5 mm on the outside trim, but it will be a very thin trim, which might look a bit funny. There are also 6 mm joint strips that you can use to build up, and the 1 mm difference can be easily fixed on the outside by fastening with an extra nail.
It is a bathroom wall, but I will face the same issue with all interior doors. I have installed plasterboard in the bathroom but not the tile adhesive or tiles yet. According to the new regulations, the door frame should be aligned with the plasterboard inside the bathroom.
The wall is constructed as follows (from inside the bathroom):
moisture-resistant plasterboard 13mm
Plywood 15mm
Stud 70mm
Plywood 12mm
Plasterboard 13mm
=123mm
nearest door frame measurement 118mm
difference on the outside (hall) 5mm
The wall is constructed as follows (from inside the bathroom):
moisture-resistant plasterboard 13mm
Plywood 15mm
Stud 70mm
Plywood 12mm
Plasterboard 13mm
=123mm
nearest door frame measurement 118mm
difference on the outside (hall) 5mm
Is there room for heel lining on the hinge side?
Yes, it's fine. The trim doesn't take up more space than a regular one. But you will also need to install moldings on the inside, how much you're not sure until the tiles are up. But it's fine. Trim or molding strips will work there too. But you cannot nail into the tiles, so it's more important that it fits tightly there.
I wonder why there's a rule that it should line up with the drywall. Then you always have to hassle with the moldings on both sides.
For other doors where you aren't tiling, I think it will be fine to place the frame in the middle and try to manage the height difference with the trim, or dab latex if you can accept that.
I wonder why there's a rule that it should line up with the drywall. Then you always have to hassle with the moldings on both sides.
For other doors where you aren't tiling, I think it will be fine to place the frame in the middle and try to manage the height difference with the trim, or dab latex if you can accept that.
If I have understood everything correctly, it should be live for the waterproofing to go over the frame.
Aha. There are more stringent requirements for a bathroom door than a nuclear power plant. They might think people will have the door in the shower.
Maybe it's a bit easier to understand the threshold thing, it's good if it's reasonably tight if it leaks onto the floor, but if so much water is coming out, you probably have other problems?
I don't know what wet zone 1 is, but it seems incredibly cumbersome to do it that way. However, rules are rules. Good luck, it probably won't be a problem to shim it out, which is absolutely necessary if you're going to follow the rules. The outside is self-explanatory. Try how it looks with a regular casing that you just hold in place. If that's not good enough, go with plinth casing, rabbet list, or Masonite + latex.
If you don't want to fuss like this, there are frames with milled grooves and special plinth casings that you just press into the groove. It's always tight and nice, but a bit more expensive + they only come in certain dimensions.
Maybe it's a bit easier to understand the threshold thing, it's good if it's reasonably tight if it leaks onto the floor, but if so much water is coming out, you probably have other problems?
I don't know what wet zone 1 is, but it seems incredibly cumbersome to do it that way. However, rules are rules. Good luck, it probably won't be a problem to shim it out, which is absolutely necessary if you're going to follow the rules. The outside is self-explanatory. Try how it looks with a regular casing that you just hold in place. If that's not good enough, go with plinth casing, rabbet list, or Masonite + latex.
If you don't want to fuss like this, there are frames with milled grooves and special plinth casings that you just press into the groove. It's always tight and nice, but a bit more expensive + they only come in certain dimensions.