Maybe a silly question, but I am going to put OSB and drywall on the walls and paneling on the ceiling.
Which should I install first and why?
Grateful for help!
Which should I install first and why?
Grateful for help!
Beginner80: what are the conditions?
Old roof to be paneled over, newly glazed?
Mats_O: What is difficult to attach?
zsimpey: Fitting? Is it a real problem, with paneling you have the ceiling molding.
And it's not that hard to hold the panel against the wall, then pull it out 1-2mm by hand, and then fasten it.
Whether you nail by hand, use a nail gun, or panel clips.
I would say it doesn't matter which one you do first. It depends on the conditions.
Old roof to be paneled over, newly glazed?
Mats_O: What is difficult to attach?
zsimpey: Fitting? Is it a real problem, with paneling you have the ceiling molding.
And it's not that hard to hold the panel against the wall, then pull it out 1-2mm by hand, and then fasten it.
Whether you nail by hand, use a nail gun, or panel clips.
I would say it doesn't matter which one you do first. It depends on the conditions.
If the ceiling is basically finished paneling, I would wait until last with it. You're not just going to put up OSB/plasterboard, you're probably going to fill, sand, and wallpaper/paint the walls. There's always a risk that you'll damage the ceiling during that work.
It's a new build so there are no problems attaching the material. I was wondering if there was a basic rule about whether to start with one or the other first. It's certainly easy to damage the ceiling when sanding, but it's probably just as easy to damage the gips if you put the ceiling last.
New build here with...
Installing the last furring strip after the wall has been clad... mostly due to indecision about the exact panel profile it should be....
It could just as well have been the other way around... in my case, there will be a 1cm gap under the plasterboard against the concrete and a 1cm gap to the furring strip, resulting in nearly 250cm ceiling height with floor and suspended ceiling installed.
(And why don't they stock wood fiber boards in the same dimensions as plasterboard... then one wouldn't need strips...)
Installing the last furring strip after the wall has been clad... mostly due to indecision about the exact panel profile it should be....
It could just as well have been the other way around... in my case, there will be a 1cm gap under the plasterboard against the concrete and a 1cm gap to the furring strip, resulting in nearly 250cm ceiling height with floor and suspended ceiling installed.
(And why don't they stock wood fiber boards in the same dimensions as plasterboard... then one wouldn't need strips...)
There are different ways to do it. I agree with JOW that the conditions dictate, along with a little personal inclination, of course. 
Here, new construction is also taking place.
First, I spaced the middle floor joists, then I erected the interior walls.
Originally, I planned to install OSB + 2500 mm drywall (and the ceiling height had been adjusted so that the entire sheets would fit correctly) and then the ceiling (in the form of panels, like ceiling ESS or Huntonit) and lastly moldings against the ceiling.
But then suddenly we changed our minds and decided to skip the ceiling molding, just running a small joint in the ceiling-wall angle, painting white slightly down the wall, and then wallpapering up to the ceiling but leaving about a 5mm trim edge that glows white against the ceiling connection.
And then everything had to change; the ceiling panels had to be installed before OSB + drywall so that the staples and tongue-and-groove edge are then covered by the panels on the walls.
Then all the drywall sheets suddenly became 12mm too long.
But now the work sequence is:
Sparse paneling.
Frame the walls.
Install the ceiling.
OSB + drywall on walls.
Joint in the ceiling-wall angle.
Paint there.
Wallpaper.
Here, new construction is also taking place.
First, I spaced the middle floor joists, then I erected the interior walls.
Originally, I planned to install OSB + 2500 mm drywall (and the ceiling height had been adjusted so that the entire sheets would fit correctly) and then the ceiling (in the form of panels, like ceiling ESS or Huntonit) and lastly moldings against the ceiling.
But then suddenly we changed our minds and decided to skip the ceiling molding, just running a small joint in the ceiling-wall angle, painting white slightly down the wall, and then wallpapering up to the ceiling but leaving about a 5mm trim edge that glows white against the ceiling connection.
And then everything had to change; the ceiling panels had to be installed before OSB + drywall so that the staples and tongue-and-groove edge are then covered by the panels on the walls.
Then all the drywall sheets suddenly became 12mm too long.
But now the work sequence is:
Sparse paneling.
Frame the walls.
Install the ceiling.
OSB + drywall on walls.
Joint in the ceiling-wall angle.
Paint there.
Wallpaper.
Yes, that's how it should be. A 1cm gap to the floor, but preferably two cm as well. So that there's also room for a wood (parquet) floor to have some movement clearance under the drywall.JOW said:
Que
What do you mean, what strip?
Yes, now I get it.JOW said:
Those strips somehow seem quite unnecessary to bother with, as well as the extra small blocking piece so there's something to attach the strip to.
I also don't understand the strange measurement of 244cm, but I think it has to do with old American standards, as Masonite has the same measurement.
1 inch is 25.4mmMikael_L said:Yes, now I understand.
Yes, those strips seem somewhat unnecessary to keep making, along with that extra little blocking piece so there's something to attach the strip to.
I also don't understand the strange measurement of 244cm, but I think it has to do with old American standards, as masonite has the same measurement.
1 foot is 12 inches
2440 / 25.4 = 96.06
96.06/12 = 8.005
The other way around, it's 25.4*12*8 = 2438.4 which I would guess is the measurement the boards are meant to have, though we've managed to get the manufacturers to round it to 2440, but haven't managed to get them to change it to 2500.
Has anyone measured a board? They might be 2438.4
I will look for my loooong caliper, and check.
I can check with the dial gauge, a whole mm should be detectable. The question is what moisture content is the reference length ??
It can probably vary at least a mm between 18% and 6% moisture content ...
I can check with the dial gauge, a whole mm should be detectable. The question is what moisture content is the reference length ??
It can probably vary at least a mm between 18% and 6% moisture content ...