Hello!
This weekend, I'm planning to remove the tiles in the kitchen, and the plan is to cover the area with wallpaper and have a glass splashback over it. I was thinking of using a hammer drill to remove the tiles, which I believe will work well. I obviously want to achieve as smooth a surface as possible for the wallpaper to look nice, but I'm unsure how to best remove the remaining grout + adhesive. Should I sand it away, or what is the best method? If so, what type of sander and paper should I use?
Thanks in advance!
This weekend, I'm planning to remove the tiles in the kitchen, and the plan is to cover the area with wallpaper and have a glass splashback over it. I was thinking of using a hammer drill to remove the tiles, which I believe will work well. I obviously want to achieve as smooth a surface as possible for the wallpaper to look nice, but I'm unsure how to best remove the remaining grout + adhesive. Should I sand it away, or what is the best method? If so, what type of sander and paper should I use?
Thanks in advance!
Hammer drill? Are you planning to pulverize your old tiles completely? If the tiles aren't too firmly attached, you can usually knock them off with a hammer and a large screwdriver. A small crowbar can also be handy. It's easier to pick up whole tiles than a bunch of shards.
But removing the remaining adhesive is another story.
But removing the remaining adhesive is another story.
Oops, I meant rotary hammer and not hammer drill! I’m thinking of one where you can turn off the rotation mechanism, should work quite well, right? I’ve considered gips, and it’s also a clear alternative, but first and foremost I want to try to make it look good without it.
It not only works pretty well but absolutely excellently. Crowbar and screwdriver are for those who don't have access to a demolition hammer or for very small areas. I tear down all the tiles in a normal bathroom in about 1 hour with a demolition hammer.Patrick Jakiel said:
Can only give ONE piece of advice...
CHANGE THE PLASTER!!!
You'll save time and sweat!! If you're going to sand away the old fixer, you'll have dust all over the kitchen and it's a hell of a job.
Go to the hardware store, buy a NEW board, put it up quickly. And in the time you would have spent removing the old fixer, sit down with a cold beer (non-alcoholic alternative Coffee), ENJOY your well-done work.
But the choice is yours and good luck!!
CHANGE THE PLASTER!!!
You'll save time and sweat!! If you're going to sand away the old fixer, you'll have dust all over the kitchen and it's a hell of a job.
Go to the hardware store, buy a NEW board, put it up quickly. And in the time you would have spent removing the old fixer, sit down with a cold beer (non-alcoholic alternative Coffee), ENJOY your well-done work.
But the choice is yours and good luck!!
I believe in the plaster with......start sanding with the angle grinder and you have sanding dust all over the house.....because it can really dust..........ask someone who tries....mother-in-law even found dust down in the wardrobe....
Unfortunately, the tiles are on a concrete wall.
Is an angle grinder with a special blade the only and/or best option? How does the surface look after grinding? Is it just a matter of filling and painting/wallpapering?
Is an angle grinder with a special blade the only and/or best option? How does the surface look after grinding? Is it just a matter of filling and painting/wallpapering?
I don't know anything about how you live, but if you live in an older condominium, I just wanted to suggest giving the association a call before you get started. It might be the case, as it was in my situation, that there is asbestos in the fix, and then it must be asbestos-remediated (by the association).
Thanks for the tip. This is a new house!
A question ... There is a small hood over one side of the angle grinder, "blade guard." Considering that, you can't really grind with the entire surface, so to speak? If you are going to use the edges of the blade and rather cut away the adhesive - won't it be difficult to get it even in the slightest?
Are putty scraper and chisel completely useless?
A question ... There is a small hood over one side of the angle grinder, "blade guard." Considering that, you can't really grind with the entire surface, so to speak? If you are going to use the edges of the blade and rather cut away the adhesive - won't it be difficult to get it even in the slightest?
Are putty scraper and chisel completely useless?
The hammer drill was incredibly useful! It was very quick and easy to remove the tiles.
Thanks for the tip about the renovation cutter - I'll rent one next weekend. Removing all the grout with a chisel would take way too long.
Thanks for the tip about the renovation cutter - I'll rent one next weekend. Removing all the grout with a chisel would take way too long.
Still holding onto my suggestion, change the gipsen, I REFUSE to give up...
But if you have decided, which you have, also rent a GOOD industrial vacuum cleaner!!
So maybe you won't get too much scolding from the wife when you've dusted up the whole kitchen.
Good luck, and feel free to write and tell what you thought, so maybe I'll be persuaded too. hehehe
But if you have decided, which you have, also rent a GOOD industrial vacuum cleaner!!
So maybe you won't get too much scolding from the wife when you've dusted up the whole kitchen.
Good luck, and feel free to write and tell what you thought, so maybe I'll be persuaded too. hehehe