I am sketching an interior wall that will support a sleeping loft. I have read that vertical studs in dimension 45x95 cc 45 with an embedded 45x120 beam at the top will provide enough stability. The problem now is that I would like to have vertical wood paneling on these walls, and with furring strips, the wall thickness becomes substantial, 181 mm (2×28 furring + 2x15 panel + 95 stud). Besides feeling like passing into a bank vault, one needs to deal with thick door frames and substantial lining.
What I thought then was to go down to 45x70 but reduce cc to 30 and also use k-plywood instead of furring strips to both strengthen and reduce thickness further. The problem then is the beam. It is not possible to embed 45x120 mm in a 70 mm stud.
Would it work to place a top plate at the top and then a corresponding layer of noggings parallel to the top plate say about 200 mm below? The upper part of the wall would then function as a box beam and might be able to replace the beam?
Has anyone encountered a similar situation?
What I thought then was to go down to 45x70 but reduce cc to 30 and also use k-plywood instead of furring strips to both strengthen and reduce thickness further. The problem then is the beam. It is not possible to embed 45x120 mm in a 70 mm stud.
Would it work to place a top plate at the top and then a corresponding layer of noggings parallel to the top plate say about 200 mm below? The upper part of the wall would then function as a box beam and might be able to replace the beam?
Has anyone encountered a similar situation?
You can instead install horizontal noggings instead of nail battens. So, instead of putting nail battens on the outside of the studs, you put noggings between the studs at the same levels where you would have placed the nail battens. Then you save 2x28mm and get a wall that is 13 cm thick instead of 18.
T ToRy said:
I've been considering that, but thought it might be a lot of work and also difficult to create an even surface for the paneling. I've never nailed up paneling before, so I don't really know exactly how flat it needs to be. But it would definitely solve the problem.T ToRy said:
I think that if you are just careful when setting the kortlingar, you should be able to achieve an "unevenness level" of a maximum of one millimeter, probably less. I have done it this way myself when the thickness of the wall has been important. Yes, more work, but you only do it once. Otherwise, the wall will seem too thick every time you see it... 
Lulaua said:
Ok, that sounds promising. Would it help to clamp, say, a section with cross bracing using boards from each side and then screw, or is it measure and adjust as needed?T ToRy said:I think that if you are just careful when installing the cross bracing, you should be able to achieve an "unevenness level" of max one millimeter, probably less. I have done it this way when the wall thickness was important. Yes, more work, but you do it only once. Otherwise, the wall will appear too thick every time you see it...
I have felt with my fingers and tightened the screw when it felt right, but attaching a stop on one side and then pressing the short piece gently against the stop should work. A 70+cm long rule that is clamped against the rules when you screw in the short piece should solve the task well, and it is easy to move to the next spot.
That sounds even better, thanks for your input.T ToRy said: