Hello! I'm about to install plasterboard on the ceiling and I'm wondering if 6mm renovation plasterboard will work? It used to be a stretched paper ceiling which unfortunately got water damaged, and underneath the paper there is tongue and groove wood. What is the problem with installing 6mm boards? Is it that the sheets become unmanageable and break? Otherwise, it would be nice to have the beveled edges to make it easier to apply joint tape and fill. Has anyone tried it?
 
P
Yes, it works with ROT-gips. The advantages of choosing 13 mm drywall instead are that it is not as sensitive to irregularities in the substrate, and personally, I think the screwing becomes "smoother" on 13 mm. 6 mm can be a bit wobbly and difficult to work with alone, but the weight is to its advantage. I would have used 13 mm drywall in 900-width, and possibly rented a drywall lift depending on how large the ceiling is.
 
Rent the plaster lift even if it's only 4-5 sheets. It's worth it to avoid canceling the camaraderie with the back the next day.
 
If you're going to use a plasterboard lift, you might as well take 1200 wide boards (if there are 2 of you lifting the boards onto the lift), then you can avoid some seams.

I don't have much experience (1 ceiling of 32 sqm). But I would absolutely choose normal thickness boards. Without knowing it, I feel like the thin boards might sag a little. Now, I don't know if you were thinking of screwing directly into the raw board or installing studs at, for example, cc30. I suspect it will be easier to get it even that way.
 
hempularen said:
If you're going to use a drywall lift anyway, you might as well take 1200 wide panels (if there are 2 of you lifting the panels onto the lift), then you avoid some seams.

I don't have much experience, (1 ceiling at 32 sqm). But I would definitely take the normal-thickness panels. Without knowing it, it feels like the thin panels would sag a bit. Now I don't know if you were thinking of screwing directly against the tongue and groove or setting joists on something like cc30. I suspect it would be easier to get it even that way.
Didn't plan on adding joists as I don't want to steal more ceiling height. The tongue and groove is fairly even, so it shouldn't be a problem. I'll probably go with 13mm drywall, it will likely be simplest and best. It's just a bit trickier with the spackling. And how do you prevent the seams from cracking? Drywall lift?? Wonder what it costs to rent one, it would simplify the work considerably ::)
 
Gips lift?? Wondering what it costs to rent one, it would definitely simplify the work
Max a couple of hundred for a day. I rented one for a room of 8 square meters. It was definitely worth the money.
 
I rented over a weekend when I built my 32kivm. The actual task of getting the board up and screwing it in place took basically no time. However, I didn't have flooring in large parts of the room, so I had to spend quite a bit of time building provisional floors where I was working.
 
This summer, I plastered about 40 sqm of a paper-stretched ceiling (with wood underneath). I used 6 mm plasterboards, 90 x 250 cm. I bought an adjustable support from a place like Jula for a few hundred and made a T out of 45x45 timber. I made the wooden prop a few centimeters shorter than the ceiling height. Absolutely no problem to do it alone. But in my case, no room was longer than 5 meters, that is, at most two boards "lengthwise." I placed the T-prop against the wall with a gap of a few centimeters to the ceiling, lifted the board onto the T-prop, held the board with one hand, and set the adjustable one in the middle. Then I screwed and moved the prop gradually so it was firm where I screwed. A drywall lift is probably good, but I didn't find it difficult at all to do it this way. Much more tiresome, and boring, is the spackling... If you are two people and DIY enthusiasts, and it's not about extremely large areas, I would never consider a drywall lift when screwing 6 mm plasterboard. Finally, I chose to keep the old paper-stretched ceiling underneath because the surface became smoother than if I had torn off the paper. Then it worked excellently with 6 mm plasterboard.
 
I couldn't find the receipt but max 200 per day. I think I paid significantly less than that.
 
I paid 140:- for a weekend.
A simple variant that unfortunately wasn't tilt-able, you had to lift the records onto it.
 
Don't understand why you think the plastering would be more difficult with 13 mm gypsum since they also have beveled edges.

-Åke
 
topmount said:
I don't understand why you think the plastering would be more difficult with 13 mm gypsum when they also have chamfered edges.

-Åke
Didn't think 13mm was chamfered. Maybe they are nowadays or are you referring to special ceiling gypsum boards?
 
Common 13mm gypsum boards are beveled on the long sides, not on the short sides.
 
Is the 6 mm plasterboard beveled on the short sides? The 6 mm boards I've bought/seen have never been that way, but I could be wrong, it has happened before :D
I think it's very easy to separate the short joints yourself.

Personally, I wouldn't want to install such a soft board like 6 mm on the ceiling.

-Åke
 
No regular gypsum boards, 6 or 13 mm, are beveled on the short end. You have to do that yourself. All regular gypsum boards are beveled on the long side. 6 mm is not "softer" than 13 mm, possibly just 7 mm thinner. Since you rarely walk on the ceiling, or load a ceiling from below in any other way, you can just as well use 6 mm as 13 mm.
 
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