Renovation plaster on drywall?

[Jimmu]

Hi!
I'm in the process of fixing up the garage now; it's a heated garage connected to the house.
Currently, the walls are ugly with lots of screw holes and damage.
How can I fix this in the best way? Is renovation plasterboard the way to go?
How do I mount them? Screws or glue?
What do I use to fill the joints?

How far down to the floor should you go? Should the plasterboard rest on the floor, or should there be a small air gap?
It's a concrete floor in the garage and it will also get a refresh with granite ceramic, which it leans toward now.
I will then mount a metal strip to function as a "baseboard."

What do you think about this? Please share suggestions so I have someone to bounce ideas with

 

[prototypen]

If it's gypsum now, consider taking it down and putting up new, check what the renovation gypsum costs first.
Or put another layer of regular gypsum.
The height of the gypsum should be adjusted to the amount of water on the floor.

Protte

 

[BVP]

Hello,
I have tried a couple of different methods to fix such old "broken" walls. 1) renovation wallpaper that you attach with wet room adhesive. You lay the strips edge to edge. It is quite thick and comes on rolls. 2) renovation gypsum that I put up with adhesive (got the tip here on the forum). I secured with screws but then removed the screws again before filling. On that particular wall it was a better choice because the upper half was a somewhat flimsy masonite wall and the lower half was lightweight concrete. Just glue over everything so to speak, and the result was a sturdy solid wall.
Both methods worked well. But if in your case there are studs behind the old gypsum to attach screws to, I would probably have chosen to screw up renovation gypsum if I wanted it to be tidy. I've also heard of those who have used construction adhesive. In my own garage, I don't require a finish, so there I would consider screwing up, for example, plywood, which makes it easy to attach things to the walls.
If there's a risk of moisture, I would choose to leave a gap at the bottom, just as you yourself are considering.

Addition: to fill the joints, you can get a hundred different suggestions, but I recommend first attaching what's called painter's tape (paper tape) with wet room adhesive over the joints. Then fill with something easy to work with, such as Alcro Lätt Hand (I think that's what it's called). Those self-adhesive fiberglass strips they sell everywhere aren't great.

 

[Elkludde]

I would choose to put 13 mm plasterboard on the existing one and offset the joints; it is probably not more expensive than the renovation plasterboard
screw through both with 42 mm drywall screws

 

[prototypen]

Fastening renovation plasterboard can be difficult as it is 90 cm wide and the studs are likely at 60, so it will align at every other seam.

Protte

 

[Elkludde]

Screwing the renovation gypsum can be difficult as it is 90 cm wide and the studs are likely at 60, will match every other joint.

Protte

then it works with 120 gypsum

 

[Sir Anton]

If possible, take down the old plasterboard and put up new 13mm, alternatively put 13mm on the old plasterboard, no point in renovation plasterboard as it is about 20:- more expensive per sheet, breaks much easier and does not provide the same stability. Renovation plasterboard can be used in the narrow hallway or in the small apartment and similar places where every mm is of value.

 

[daugaard]

don't know how bad the walls are but maybe filling is an alternative to replacing the plasterboard?

 

[Jimmu]

Thank you for all the answers!

Possibly, I could plaster it all up, I haven't looked much at bigger holes, but I have seen one as big as a palm. However, it's no problem to plaster over various nail and screw holes.

I'll compare some prices to see the difference between using 6mm and 13mm plasterboards, interesting that the thicker ones would be cheaper.

Currently, the walls are painted daffodil yellow, behind the previous cabinets the wall is light brown kind of. The question is how much more paint is needed to just plaster and paint it white compared to installing new fresh plasterboards and painting them white.

Of course, it's worth considering what the final cost and the final working hours will be.

What do you think about plaster on plaster or tearing down the old plaster and replacing it with new boards?

Best regards, Jimmie

 

[BVP]

Maybe a middle ground - only replace the really bad boards and patch up the others? That way, not as much material is needed.

 

[Jimmu]

Have looked a bit more closely now.
The side walls are plastered with 13mm gypsum boards, 1200mm wide.
The garage's back wall is a partition wall into a storage area where there are chipboards.
The studs have a c-c measurement of 600mm.

Probably no idea to just spackle, so what would you do?

Option 1: renovation gypsum on top of existing wall
Option 2: 13mm gypsum on top of existing wall
Option 3: tear down existing wall and install new 13mm gypsum boards?

 

[Elkludde]

Alternative 2 without a doubt, offset the joints

 

[prototypen]

Without hesitation 2.
Double plastering is not uncommon and often a requirement between different parts of a building.

Protte

 

[Jimmu]

Thanks for the answers!
I will go with this, you have convinced me!
Should I use 42mm drywall screws as someone mentioned earlier in the thread?
What method is recommended for the hanging point of shelves, etc.?

 

[hantverkare1]

Thanks for the answers!
I will go with this, you have convinced me!
Go with 42mm drywall screws as someone said earlier in the thread?
What method is recommended for mounting shelves and such?

I agree!
Double drywall is gold!