R Rickard.lj said:
A hell of a job, this will probably be good when the studs are on. Is the house damp in the slab? Why are you doing this? Will there be any heating or insulation?
We drained with insulation (pordrän) in 2021. Since then, the cellar environment has been very good, dry and nice.

I will put foam insulation between all the studs but otherwise nothing more.

The reason I'm doing this is that the floor is too uneven (level differences of 4 cm) to use something like a Platon mat at the bottom as I've seen many others have done. What I'm aiming for is a ventilated floor where nothing organic is in direct contact with concrete or anything else that can conduct moisture.

Edit: The slab is not damp.

raveper raveper said:
Why not just use nivell or whatever it's called?
Mainly the price. I have no objections to the system otherwise.
 
  • Like
postkontrollen and 1 other
  • Laddar…
After some consideration, it ultimately ended up being three more rows of cast pillars. Now they are placed at 50 cm centers instead of double that. Planning to set studs at 45x45, so this feels like a must. Now it's time to lay plastic on the newly cast cylinder pipes and call it a day.
 
  • Concrete floor with multiple rows of round, blue-capped cylindrical forms for foundation pillars in a room. A leveling tool and lights are visible in the background.
  • Like
Rickard.lj and 1 other
  • Laddar…
Short update.

Today, studs were purchased. Went with 45x70 mm.

Tested the principle with Biltema's joist hangers and a stud. The small cast pillars seem to be level. Seems to work fine …

Now, three of four walls will be painted and the slab cleaned thoroughly before the floor construction can begin.
 
  • Stacks of wooden planks in a hardware store, labeled "Moelven." Some are loaded in a metal cart, ready for transport.
  • Black joist hanger placed on a concrete floor, surrounded by round cement pillars, ready for a construction project.
  • Wooden beam placed on small concrete pillars in a room under renovation, with a spotlight illuminating the unfinished wall and floor area.
  • Level tool on a wooden beam placed atop a small concrete pillar, used to check the evenness during a construction project.
  • Like
Henningelvis and 6 others
  • Laddar…
Update
 
  • Framing structure for a new floor under construction in a room with pink walls and a chandelier.
  • Like
Rickard.lj and 3 others
  • Laddar…
Hello everyone again!

It's time for insulation. I'm considering using stone wool BUT, Nivell and others use stone wool/glass wool with an aluminum film on one side that should be laid down towards the concrete. It doesn't seem to be something that regular hardware stores have on the shelf.

Do you think I'll regret it if I use "regular" stone wool?
 
The insulation is underway. I underestimated the time it would take to attach perforated straps underneath to support the stone wool. A bit of foil tape also helps as extra support.

I've also taken the opportunity to run flexible conduit underneath for future cable routing for sound and media. I'll provide a picture once the insulation is in place. After that, I plan to purchase chipboard.
 
  • Wooden framing with insulation progress and flex conduit installation beneath, under dim lighting with a chandelier.
  • Like
Rickard.lj
  • Laddar…
J_P_K J_P_K said:
Hello everyone again!

It's getting close to time for insulation. I'm considering putting in mineral wool BUT, Nivell and others use mineral wool/glass wool with an aluminum film on one side that is supposed to be placed downwards towards the concrete. It doesn't seem like regular hardware stores have this on the shelf.

Do you think I'll regret it if I use "regular" mineral wool?
Late reply but... Nivell's mineral wool is extra hard on one side to prevent sagging when it hangs on the "carriers" placed on the joists. I believe the mineral wool itself is just like any other, the important thing is that it doesn't sag onto the slab (especially if you have forced ventilation that should go along with the slab).
 
H henche said:
Late response but... Nivells stone wool is extra hard on one side to prevent it from sagging when it hangs on the "carriers" placed on the beams. I believe that the stone wool itself is just like any other; the important thing is that it doesn't sag on the plate (especially if you have forced ventilation that should run along the plate).
Thanks for the response. I hadn't completely let go of the thought.

Okay, that explains why their insulation carriers are relatively small; they would never work for regular stone wool.

No forced ventilation in my case.
 
Insulation in place. Floor chipboard in place.

Floor purchased, which I plan to start laying in a few days.
 
  • Room under renovation with particle board flooring, tools on the floor, and a chandelier hanging from the ceiling.
  • Room with insulation and subfloor in progress, tools and materials scattered, under a hanging chandelier.
  • View of floor insulation and particle board installed in a construction project.
  • A room with installed floor insulation, viewed from above, with walls and ceiling in place. A chandelier is hanging from the ceiling.
  • Room with installed subflooring, exposed door, brick fireplace, chandelier, and construction tools.
  • Like
djanlov
  • Laddar…
A question in that context. How would it have worked with tracked discs and underfloor heating in that construction? Do you still heat the concrete too much with attached risks? Many claim that you also get energy losses with underfloor heating and poor insulation downward. But is that really true? The losses should exist even if you heat with radiators? Or?
 
O Olf Oggler said:
A question in this context. How would it have worked with tracked discs and underfloor heating in that construction? Does one still heat the concrete too much with associated risks? Many claim that you also get energy losses with underfloor heating and poor downward insulation. But is that really true? The losses should be there even if you heat with radiators? Or?
It's not something I can answer, but I understand what you mean. When it's not directly against the slab, it should at least make some difference, perhaps marginally. Someone who knows and reads this is welcome to respond.
 
With underfloor heating, there is always a risk that the heat goes downward in this type of construction, but who cares when your feet are warm and cozy? If you want to minimize heating the slab, there are other solutions with a different type of insulation on the slab with this type of framework.
 
Here are pictures of the current state. The floor is in place. Remaining are the baseboards and acoustic panels. Also uploading a picture showing how we planned the placement of the TV in the room. This is to understand the cable passages in the floor.
 
  • Empty room with newly installed wooden floor, chandelier hanging from ceiling, and cable outlets visible on the floor.
  • A living room with newly installed wooden flooring, a chandelier, white brick fireplace, door, and dark wall section for TV and cable placement.
  • Light wood flooring installation progress, with door and unfinished walls. Acoustic panels and cable outlets visible.
  • Wooden floor with slatted wall panel and a black cable outlet for TV installation in a room under renovation.
  • Newly installed wooden floor and dark brown wall with pending work on baseboards and acoustic panels, showing TV cable conduits.
  • 3D room design in SketchUp showing wall panels, floor, and TV placement. Background has acoustic panels and red accent wall.
  • Like
postkontrollen and 4 others
  • Laddar…
Nice 👍
 
  • Like
J_P_K
  • Laddar…
J_P_K J_P_K said:
Here are pictures of the current situation. The floor is in place. Remaining are the baseboards and acoustic panels. I'm also uploading a picture that shows how we plan to place the TV in the room. This is to understand the cable conduits in the floor.
Looks great, turned out well in the end 😀
 
  • Like
J_P_K
  • Laddar…
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.