I am currently working on a major renovation project of a summer cottage. The house was originally an old military barrack from the 1940s, single-story with a cold attic. What I have done is remove the inner ceiling towards the cold attic and instead insulated most of the sloped roof to get the full ceiling height and more space in the house. My idea now is to create a sleeping loft on one side of the house by remodeling 3 of the house's 10 existing roof trusses (trusses). This would be done at one end of the house, which will then have 3 bedrooms with interior walls underneath. What do you think about this? Is it possible and how should I go about replacing the 3 middle supports in the trusses in the best way? See pictures below!
The trusses are meant to be self-supporting at present.
Below you can see which supports in the trusses I want to remove and in the picture (best I could find) you see the three trusses in question.
Spontaneously, it involves significant reinforcements of both support and overhead frames.
But more information is needed. Measurements? Where in the country (snow load zone)? Speech matting? Wall drawing?
Spontaneously, it involves significant reinforcement of both the lower and upper frames.
But more information is needed. Measurements? Where in the country (snow load zone)? Roof covering? Wall drawing?
Thanks!
The span of the roof trusses is about 6m
and the distance between the trusses is 120 cm center to center. So 360 cm needs to be relieved.
The house is located outside of Nynäshamn (Stockholm).
The roof is covered with underlay and surface felt.
Roof slope: about 24 degrees
I don't have an exact drawing of the interior walls that will run underneath, but the idea is to make 3 rooms, that is, two interior walls that will be about 2 meters apart (so that all three rooms are about 2m wide). Then there will be a wall running under the roof truss that ends furthest inside the house, so to speak. There, the doors to the rooms will be installed.
One idea has been to install a ridge beam (2 pieces of 45x220 glued/screwed together) with a support going all the way down to the load-bearing beam on the floor on one side and down to the lower frame on the gable's "roof truss," if you understand...
What do you think of that idea, and is it enough then to take the load for the "slanted" supports in the roof trusses?
I know that this matter of relief and load-bearing is a bit complex, but I appreciate all tips and advice!
You should really have someone calculate it properly, but when I look at your picture, I see that you've reinforced the upper arm, which counteracts the weakening that removing struts would cause. My guess, if you've fastened them properly and they are strong enough, is that it will suffice and you don't need a ridge beam.
I can't see any benefit to a ridge beam in this case.
Approximately, what are the dimensions of the upper arms, with and without the extension?
The easiest way is to replace or reinforce the top chords in the truss. If you replace it, a 45x220 C24 is required; if you reinforce it, you can attach a 45x145 C24 on each side of the existing beam. But perhaps you've already done that?
If you remove the trusses, wouldn't the load from the upper frame legs be significantly larger where it joins with the lower frame? Doesn't that connection need to be reinforced?
If the trusses are free-spanning, then all truss loads should be supported by the two supports at the outer walls. This condition does not change if you convert to some type of frame truss. However, the addition of a loft increases the loads, so there is every reason to review the joining at the outer ends.
You should have someone calculate it properly, but when I look at your picture, I see that you have built onto the upper arm, which counteracts the weakening that removing the struts would lead to. My guess, if you have attached them properly and they are strong enough, is that it's sufficient, that you don't need a ridge beam.
I can't see any benefit to a ridge beam in this case.
What are the approximate dimensions of the upper arms, with and without the addition?
The rafters were originally built with two pieces about 25x95mm side by side with the crosspieces in the middle, forming a "gap" in the middle of the rafters, if you understand. Now I've built onto the rafters with 21x170 exterior paneling on each side of the rafters.
The simplest way is to replace or reinforce the top chords in the roof truss. If you replace them, a 45x220 C24 is required, if you reinforce, you can attach a 45x145 C24 on each side of the existing beam. But maybe you've already done that?
No, I haven't done that, only built them downwards to make room for insulation. But if I also build them on the sides with suggested 45x145 beams on the top chords and a ridge beam with supports at each end, then it should be enough as a complement to the cross beams I want to remove? That does feel like it!
Just out of curiosity: What ceiling height do you get up there under the rafters?
Nothing impressive unfortunately, about 130cm at the highest with the new ceiling. But it's only meant to be for sleeping spaces so you have to crawl up a bit conveniently
If you reinforce the top beams, no ridge beam is needed.
Old thread but I'm in the process of a similar solution. I have a span of just over 7 meters. Each top arm is 4.20 meters. What dimension does the top arm need to be to completely remove the truss? No inner/load-bearing walls exist.
Regards
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