Reinforce wooden beam

[Stefan1972]

Sure, but don't get me wrong, it takes quite significant deviations for you to feel a sway in a floor. Then something is definitely not as it should be.

 

[hempularen]

The span of 4.5m is not remarkably long, rather a good margin. And if there are already double joists (unusual), then no additional stiffening should be needed.

 

[Marre666]

I have probably been a bit unclear

These double 45X220 K24 reglar that are glued and screwed together run across the floor below to support the joists; it is this that I want to reinforce.

 

[bomm]

Screw-glue your sheet metal under the existing beam. But 10mm is overkill...

And yes, it should be positioned underneath, just look at how an HEA beam is designed or even better, a masonite beam/light beam.

The greatest load/tensile force from the deflection is at the bottom of the beam, all the wood in between is just to "support." That's why you can make a pipe penetration 1/3 of the total diameter without significantly weakening the beam.

 

[Patrik Lidstedt]

Screw glue your sheet metal under the existing beam. But 10mm is overkill....

And yes, it should sit under it, just look at how an HEA beam is designed or even better a masonite beam/light beam.

The greatest load/tensile force from the deflection is at the bottom of the beam; all the wood in between is just to "support". That's why you can make a pipe penetration 1/3 of the total diameter without significantly weakening the beam.

Now, I'm not an engineer, but I'm pretty sure it's always the vertical surface that makes structures stiff, try carrying any object and you'll see!

To TS;

Prop under the beam and add a little "over-tension" to it, screw glue as you planned, and it will become stiff as hell!

 

[Marre666]

Now, I'm not an engineer, but I'm quite sure that it's always the vertical surface that makes structures strong. Try carrying any object, and you'll see!

To TS;

Support under the beam and give it a slight "overbend," screw and glue as you planned, and it'll become stiff as hell!

I talked to the neighboring company "Metallservice," and they said it's the combination of horizontal, vertical, horizontal that makes an I-beam/steel beam strong. Simply screwing/gluing a steel plate lying on the underside of the joists doesn't do much good, they said. However, they mentioned that doing as I planned does make a difference in stiffness 👌 I forgot to ask if maybe 5-6 mm thickness might be enough instead of 10 mm??

 

[Stefan1972]

yes 10mm is probably a bit overkill as I mentioned earlier. 5mm should be just fine.
Are you sure the reglarna are glued together? Otherwise, the easiest solution would have been to weld a standing plate to a bottom plate and then press it up between the reglarna and bolt it together into a package.

 

[Marre666]

Yes, 10mm is probably a bit overkill as I mentioned earlier. 5mm is probably more than enough.
Are you sure the beams are glued together? Otherwise, the smoothest solution would have been to weld a standing plate to a bottom plate and then press it up between the beams and bolt it together into a package.

Not the smoothest, but definitely a darn good idea...it would have been strong as hell! But it is unfortunately glued and screwed, so it would be quite a project otherwise, then I would have needed to replace the beam and then I might as well have taken a laminated or steel beam

The advantage of just gluing/screwing a steel plate on one side is precisely that it is smooth and hopefully strong

 

[Björn Melander]

If you screw-glue K-plyfa on each side, you get a rigid construction that also consists of the same material (steel and wood behave differently with changes in temperature and humidity).

 

[smurfen72]

Doesn't it work to screw on a U-beam of suitable height on the side of the wooden structure?

 

[Marre666]

If you screw glue K-plyfa on each side, you get a stiff construction that also consists of the same material (steel and wood behave differently with changes in temperature and humidity).

Sounds interesting, is there K-plyfa in long lengths of 4-5 meters, because it probably doesn't work well to splice in the middle for strength and pressure, etc.?

 

[Fredrik.engdahl]

You can always order a kerto beam that is plyfa but thicker, there are different models and it can also be adapted to your existing beam.

 

[Marre666]

You can always order a kerto beam, which is plywood but thicker, there are different models and it can also be adapted to your existing beam.

Sounds great...how do you mean it can be adapted to our existing beam? Do you mean like a U-beam of kerto, so that it simply encloses the existing one?

 

[prototypen]

Marre, you've received many different solutions, but I think your original idea is very good. 10 mm seems a bit unnecessarily thick, but with thinner sheet, there's a risk of the sheet "giving way," which requires more screws (closer together) as it's the wood structure that keeps the sheet stable. Consult with the neighboring company that has experience with steel.

Calculate the weight so you have a manageable weight.

Placing the steel UNDER the wooden beam assumes you can also place steel on top of the beam and connect these with something and screw the steel to the wooden beam so it functions as a web is near impossible.
Steel does its best job under and on top, but it must be better than two flat bars stacked together.

If you want to be slick, you place a thick rod on top and bottom connected with a thinner sheet (the web).
It requires some welding but can be simpler since rods come in long lengths.

Protte

 

[Fredrik.engdahl]

I believe you can order kerto beam basically however you want, but I think it's sufficient to screw/glue from the side

A kerto beam 45x200 from this page http://www.byggbutikenonline.se/produkter/Limträ Kerto.aspx costs about 140 SEK / m