Frame interior wall with 34mm studs

[Kulibertikus]

Is timber 34x95mm available in C24 quality? What I see at the hardware store in 34x95 is usually in G4-2 quality, which means a lot of large knots and that it should be used mostly as battens, not for load-bearing construction. I notice that the timber in G4-2 is much more flexible and flimsy than C24. I would probably completely avoid it in an interior wall?

 

[fribygg]

If the inner wall is load-bearing, one should generally use two-by-four lumber; nothing in the TS information indicates that the wall is load-bearing.

 

[MPilen]

I'll offer a free drawing with standard studs.



[image]

Smart! Although it will be a bit more than cc60, but maybe nothing to worry about? One side of the wall will be tiled.

 

[MPilen]

If the interior wall is load-bearing, one should generally use two-inch lumber, nothing in TS information indicates that the wall is load-bearing.

Correct, the wall is not load-bearing.

 

[fribygg]

Then you don't need to worry about strength-graded timber

 

[fribygg]

Smart! It will be a bit more than cc60 then, but maybe nothing to worry about? One side of the wall will be tiled.

If the tiled side is a wet room, I think you should try to follow the recommended c/c measurements.

 

[Lexington]

If the tiled side is a wet room, I think you should try to follow recommended c/c measurements

Recommended cc measurement in bathrooms is probably 45? Hard to fit a distribution cabinet at 55 then.

 

[fribygg]

The recommended center-to-center measurement in bathrooms is usually 45, right? It's hard to fit a manifold cabinet at 55 then.

Well, it usually works out to add an extra stud at least above the manifold cabinet; below, you can sometimes screw a board or strip of 15mm plywood for reinforcement and still have plenty of room for the pipes.

 

[MPilen]

Well, it's usually fine to add an extra beam at least above the distribution cabinet, below you can sometimes screw a board or strip of 15mm plywood as reinforcement and still have good space for the hoses.

Thanks for the good tips! I hadn't thought of framing more closely than cc60, but I'll add noggings above and maybe below the cabinet. And consider if it's worth making a slightly wider compartment to be able to run electrical conduit next to the cabinet.

 

[useless]

Place a horizontal stud directly above the cabinet and a vertical one in its center. Underneath the cabinet, it's a bit trickier depending on how many pipes need to go there, but it's usually possible to be a little creative and glue on some reinforcement and squeeze in a vertical stud between the pipes.

 

[fribygg]

Thanks for great tips! Hadn't thought about spacing studs closer than cc60, but I'll have to add noggins above and maybe below the cabinet. And think about whether it's worth creating a slightly wider compartment to be able to run electrical conduit next to the cabinet.

Will it be a wet room on the other side of the wall?

 

[MPilen]

Place a horizontal beam directly above the cabinet and a vertical one in the middle of it. Under the cabinet, it's a bit trickier depending on how many pipes need to go there, but usually, you can be a little creative and glue on some reinforcement and squeeze in a vertical beam between the pipes.

Should be added that there's only 210 in the ceiling, but we'll make sure to add a little extra where it fits, and it should be great!

 

[MPilen]

Will there be a wet room on the other side of the wall?

Wet room on one side, hall on the other.

 

[fribygg]

Wet room on one side, hallway on the other.

Then follow the wall construction to the letter as required for the desired wet room if you have the house insured.

 

[klaskarlsson]

According to below should work (number of studs and measurements you should adjust).
I.e. cc 45 (as a bathroom should have) but with bridging where the cabinet is to be placed?