9,391 views ·
18 replies
9k views
18 replies
Rule election for interior wall
Page 1 of 2
Hello. I'm planning to build a gypsum inner wall to divide a room into two. I'm considering the choice of material for the studs, wood or steel? What are the advantages of each option? I imagine that wooden studs might provide a sturdier wall, while steel studs might be easier to carry home from the store, but are there any other advantages?
Grateful for any tips.
Grateful for any tips.
The metal studs are guaranteed to be straight "if they are not damaged," wood is a living material and is never 100 no matter how top-quality lumber you buy.
Nail the baseboard to the vertical wall studs c/c 45 or c/c 60, depending on which drywall you will use. Otherwise, using screws is also fine, but I don't think it looks as nice.warpman said:
I advocate for steel. In terms of stability, it is almost equivalent. As mentioned, it is always straight, and if you have a "normal" ceiling height around 2.40, there is a good chance you can buy the steel studs in the correct length (2385 mm) and avoid cutting.
Regarding the baseboard, it can be solved with a track with a higher flange (available up to 100 mm, but the standard is usually 55 mm) and screws. If, for some reason, you cannot screw into the track’s flange, you can mount a metal strip where the baseboard is to be screwed.
Regarding the baseboard, it can be solved with a track with a higher flange (available up to 100 mm, but the standard is usually 55 mm) and screws. If, for some reason, you cannot screw into the track’s flange, you can mount a metal strip where the baseboard is to be screwed.
OK, thanks for the great response.
Another question, is it worth installing insulation in the wall, e.g., Rockwool to dampen the sound or does it make no difference at all?
I have no possibility to use double drywall as it's tight between the windows where the wall is going in, otherwise, that's probably the best way to dampen the sound through the wall?
Another question, is it worth installing insulation in the wall, e.g., Rockwool to dampen the sound or does it make no difference at all?
I have no possibility to use double drywall as it's tight between the windows where the wall is going in, otherwise, that's probably the best way to dampen the sound through the wall?
Plaster definitely makes a difference. Check out Gyproc's "sound plank." Also, check the detailing so that your fiddling yields the result you want. As an amateur, I would never have used steel. How do you, for example, cut a steel stud in a good way to get the right length? Noggings over doors, etc., isn't that tricky with steel as an amateur?
Link: http://www.gyproc.se/files/PDF/Sweden/HB7/HBKap2.1.1.pdf
Check page three and you'll have your wall there.
Link: http://www.gyproc.se/files/PDF/Sweden/HB7/HBKap2.1.1.pdf
Check page three and you'll have your wall there.
What kind of studs are you planning to use then? 70mm+ plasterboard?warpman said:OK, thanks for the good answer.
Another thought, is there any point in putting insulation in the wall, e.g. Rockwool to dampen the sound or does it make no difference at all?
I don't have the option to use double plasterboard as it's tight between the windows where the wall is going in, otherwise that's probably the best way to dampen sound through the wall?
In that case, you can instead go with 45mm + 11mm OSB + plasterboard = less wall thickness.
Advantages: soundproofing, attaching things to the wall, more solid feel.
Disadvantages: cost, more work.
I was thinking of using 45mm studs + single plasterboard, preferably not thicker since it's a bit tight between the windows where the wall is going "in".Mikael_L said:
Well, then my tip doesn't help...
You probably shouldn't use anything weaker than 45x45.
No, then it's really just 45x45 + single drywall on each side that applies. Throw in a 45mm insulation board of the cheapest kind you can find, it'll surely do some good. You don't need to be particularly meticulous with the fitting, I doubt even a gap a decimeter wide will make much difference.
As for soundproofing, I think it might actually be better with sawdust filling in the wall than MU.
But in any case, do a thorough job sealing off any potential gaps along the wall, floor, and ceiling with, for example, a bead of latex caulk if you're aiming to dampen sound between rooms.
You probably shouldn't use anything weaker than 45x45.
No, then it's really just 45x45 + single drywall on each side that applies. Throw in a 45mm insulation board of the cheapest kind you can find, it'll surely do some good. You don't need to be particularly meticulous with the fitting, I doubt even a gap a decimeter wide will make much difference.
As for soundproofing, I think it might actually be better with sawdust filling in the wall than MU.
But in any case, do a thorough job sealing off any potential gaps along the wall, floor, and ceiling with, for example, a bead of latex caulk if you're aiming to dampen sound between rooms.
When it comes to soundproofing in a wall with a single layer of plaster on each side, the difference in attenuation is about 5 dB if mineral wool is used. Then it is generally said that 75% of the cavity should be filled, so small gaps don't make a big difference...
OK, so a little sound difference is made with insulation.
The frame is up now, it became 45 mm wooden studs all around with c 450 mm.
I will go buy plasterboard today, we'll see if we throw in a roll of insulation too.
Thanks for all the answers!
The frame is up now, it became 45 mm wooden studs all around with c 450 mm.
I will go buy plasterboard today, we'll see if we throw in a roll of insulation too.
Thanks for all the answers!