spacing rules osb

KE · 25 Dec 2008 at 10:34 AM

I'm planning to replace my wall particle boards (13mm) in a bedroom as there is no insulation between the walls. The stud spacing is 600, I was thinking of using OSB boards (11mm) instead of particle board, plus a layer of renovation plasterboard. Does it work with c/c 600 on the studs? I've looked around a bit but haven't found any information on stud spacing for different wood boards; for plasterboards, I've found different stud spacings depending on the number of plasterboard layers.

Mikael_L · 25 Dec 2008 at 10:50 AM

cc600 will be perfect!
But not on walls that are going to be tiled, then you should have cc300.
OSB is not allowed in bathroom walls, but there may be other walls you want to tile.

OSB boards are 1197mm, leave a 3mm gap between each, so they can move sufficiently due to humidity.
Feel free to set the OSB and the gypsum with staggered seams.

Immobil · 25 Dec 2008 at 11:17 AM

Mikael_L said:
The OSB boards are 1197mm, allow for a 3 mm gap between each, so they can move sufficiently due to humidity.

And what could happen in the worst case if they are placed directly against each other in a garage?

Daniel_N · 25 Dec 2008 at 11:23 AM

Immobil said:
Oh, what might happen in the worst case if you have placed them flush against each other in a garage?

Bulging wall, they grow, press into each other, and the wall can start bulging back and forth,

Mikael_L · 25 Dec 2008 at 11:33 AM

Immobil said:
Oh, what could happen at worst if you have placed them tight against each other in a garage?

Well ...

What do I know (that you don't know?

).

It's the general advice, but one could wonder if it's really that important. All the wood in the house should have the same problem, but you don't put any movement gaps there.
But since the boards are slightly undersized, it kind of happens automatically. You should not frame 1.5 mm tighter

Mikael_L · 25 Dec 2008 at 11:40 AM

Daniel_N said:
Bulging wall, they grow, press into each other, and the wall can start to bulge back and forth,

Like my asfaboard panels now...

Installed asfaboard as a wind barrier, tightly against each other (absolutely necessary, as they measure 1200). Now they've expanded a bit and bulge fantastically, between the nail battens.
But these boards are, on the other hand, exposed to driving rain and snow. So, OSB inside the wall shouldn't need to move.

Daniel_N · 25 Dec 2008 at 11:57 AM

Mikael_L said:
Like my asfaboard panels now... I installed asfaboard as wind protection, tightly against each other (absolutely necessary, as they measure 1200). Now they have swelled a bit and are bulging incredibly between the batten. But then again, these panels are exposed to driving rain and snow. So the OSB inside the wall shouldn't have to deal with that.

No, I suppose it's in a "worst-case scenario" that such things happen, I guess...

Linnex · 25 Dec 2008 at 2:28 PM

You don't need to tear down the boards due to lack of insulation. I also only had chipboard and uninsulated interior walls.

During renovation and remodeling, I drilled a 102 mm hole at the top of the wall between all the studs and filled it with loose wool. Then I put the 100 mm piece back with latex. Finally, I screwed all the walls with regular gypsum boards.

Note! Do not use renovation gypsum unless you have a specific reason. 13 mm gypsum provides better sound insulation. Gypsum insulates sound better than insulation and if you want a really well sound-insulated wall, you should screw double gypsum on both sides.

Mikael_L · 25 Dec 2008 at 2:53 PM

Linnex said:
No need to tear down the boards due to lack of insulation. I also had only chipboard and uninsulated interior walls.

During remodeling and renovation, I drilled a 102 mm hole at the top of the wall between all the studs and filled it with loose fill insulation. Then I put back the 100 mm piece with latex. Finally, I screwed regular drywall on all the walls.

Note! Do not use renovation drywall unless you have a specific reason. 13 mm drywall provides better soundproofing. Drywall soundproofs better than insulation, and if you want a really well soundproofed wall, you should screw double drywall on both sides.

Wise words, and advice.

I don't think an OSB+drywall wall is significantly better than a chipboard+drywall.

KE · 26 Dec 2008 at 8:55 AM

what is the difference between OSB and particleboard really, in practical terms?

Mikael_L · 26 Dec 2008 at 9:02 AM

You get more splinters in your hands when working with OSB

I don't know for sure what the differences are.
I guess that OSB is a bit stronger, I also guess that the particle board provides slightly better sound insulation.

Gonate · 27 Dec 2008 at 12:10 PM

the last time I did that we had 90gypsum, OSB and stud distance 45 (although we laid OSB down to what was thought to save material) however, I wouldn't recommend OSB if you are using it to hang heavy items.

Mikael_L · 27 Dec 2008 at 6:43 PM

Gonate said:
... would not recommend OSB if you're installing it to hang heavy things on it.

Not OSB? What would you recommend instead?
Chipboard, plywood? Råspont could also be used, takes more time but ...

Gonate · 27 Dec 2008 at 7:12 PM

Mikael_L said:
Not OSB?, what would you rather recommend?

Feels like OSB is very fragile when carrying it around and so on, therefore it feels illogical to, for example, mount a 40" TV on it and expect it to hold :/ but maybe it's just me who got the wrong impression

Mikael_L · 27 Dec 2008 at 8:19 PM

I'm asking because I'm not sure which is the most stable. Some claim that particleboard is as strong and good as OSB behind the drywall. The most stable is probably construction plywood, but unless you're made of money, you'll likely choose between the first two options.

I'm soon going to choose the material behind the drywall in the garage, and OSB has probably been the first choice all along. But if particleboard works just as well, it is 1. more fun to handle, and 2. a bit cheaper.