15,422 views ·
22 replies
15k views
22 replies
Solid wood paneling instead of OSB/Chipboard/Plywood behind drywall (Stupid idea?)
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Hello,
I've been considering using råspont instead of more modern sheet materials behind the gypsum boards.
The house is from 1945 and is a so-called plank house. I will be adding insulation from the inside, probably with wood fiber insulation.
Is my idea completely crazy, or are there actually people who do it this way? In terms of time, it’s slower, but I can't really see that it would take an unreasonably long time.
I've been considering using råspont instead of more modern sheet materials behind the gypsum boards.
The house is from 1945 and is a so-called plank house. I will be adding insulation from the inside, probably with wood fiber insulation.
Is my idea completely crazy, or are there actually people who do it this way? In terms of time, it’s slower, but I can't really see that it would take an unreasonably long time.
Are you going to do the job yourself? Then it's not entirely crazy, just questionable in my opinion. OSB costs around 40 SEK/sqm and raw tongue-and-groove boards maybe 65%. The raw tongue-and-groove boards are thus over 50% more expensive in material. Additionally, there's significantly more work with raw tongue-and-groove boards from the time you take it out of the lumberyard to when it's installed, plus you have to watch out for movements in the material. I would estimate at least twice as much time to build with raw tongue-and-groove boards instead of OSB.
I used tongue and groove under the drywall in my house, mainly because in some cases it was already on the walls, and in others because I had a lot of it left over when I tore down old interior walls. I live in a house built in 1920, with standing planks as the frame. The interior walls are in some cases 2" standing planks with 1" horizontal tongue and groove on each side and then masonite, which probably came later, originally it seems to have been tension paper. "Newer" interior walls (50s-60s, perhaps) were built of 2" studs with 17mm tongue and groove and masonite.
The old 1" tongue and groove is dried out, warped, and crooked and to top it off, nailed with clip nails. So it's been quite a tedious job to get those walls flat. But they are very solid...
The tongue and groove (17mm) from newer walls that I have torn down, I have then recycled and used under drywall on newly built walls. Sure, a bit more work than with OSB, but not insurmountable. You don't have to be particularly meticulous. An advantage with a nail gun, as there is an insane amount of nails to hammer in. It's also a bit tricky with all the electrical and plumbing material that is intended to be mounted with sheet thicknesses in multiples of about 12-13mm. There are good solutions for this as well in the form of telescopic boxes, etc.
The old 1" tongue and groove I had left over I have thrown away or used as sparse paneling and the like. All the talk about having good timber in the past is just talk. Timber was used for what it was suitable for. And the poorest quality seems to have gone to tongue and groove and the like. Not uncommon to find knots the size of a hand that have caused these boards to warp significantly.
The old 1" tongue and groove is dried out, warped, and crooked and to top it off, nailed with clip nails. So it's been quite a tedious job to get those walls flat. But they are very solid...
The tongue and groove (17mm) from newer walls that I have torn down, I have then recycled and used under drywall on newly built walls. Sure, a bit more work than with OSB, but not insurmountable. You don't have to be particularly meticulous. An advantage with a nail gun, as there is an insane amount of nails to hammer in. It's also a bit tricky with all the electrical and plumbing material that is intended to be mounted with sheet thicknesses in multiples of about 12-13mm. There are good solutions for this as well in the form of telescopic boxes, etc.
The old 1" tongue and groove I had left over I have thrown away or used as sparse paneling and the like. All the talk about having good timber in the past is just talk. Timber was used for what it was suitable for. And the poorest quality seems to have gone to tongue and groove and the like. Not uncommon to find knots the size of a hand that have caused these boards to warp significantly.
I have tongue and groove boards in my prefabricated house from '89.
Probably much cheaper than sheet materials as the quality of the wood is extremely poor (leftover wood from cutting tongue and groove), but it works very well except for when you need to screw where there is no wood.
There are advantages too, screws hold better in wood than in chipboard.
Probably much cheaper than sheet materials as the quality of the wood is extremely poor (leftover wood from cutting tongue and groove), but it works very well except for when you need to screw where there is no wood.
There are advantages too, screws hold better in wood than in chipboard.
An acquaintance of mine used rough lumber panels on their walls. It's quick to install but might cost a bit extra. I'm also considering this. Rough lumber or OSB. In our current house (Fiskarhedenvillan) we have particleboard behind drywall. I think it's the cheapest solution, but I find it tricky to screw into that material. In the garage, there's OSB, which seems better for some reason.
My dad has always used råspont behind the drywall in his 1930s house. He has felt that it seems safer (considering what was previously in OSB) and more pleasant to work with (many angles and nooks in a 1930s house).
Works just as well either way.
I have used both materials under plaster in our house from -48.
In cases where it has been a tongue and groove wall that is not completely torn down, just adjusted, I have restored it with 17x95 which in my case fits perfectly in the old tongue.
When I build a completely new wall side, I put OSB underneath.
I have used both materials under plaster in our house from -48.
In cases where it has been a tongue and groove wall that is not completely torn down, just adjusted, I have restored it with 17x95 which in my case fits perfectly in the old tongue.
When I build a completely new wall side, I put OSB underneath.
