In connection with some groundwork where our parking area was expanded, a new wall was cast. Due to various reasons, the top of this wall did not turn out aesthetically as I had hoped, so now I am considering whether I can fix this myself.

I wanted the top of the new wall to follow the extended line formed by the top of the old wall. The feeling should be that the opening for the stairs has been taken up in a continuous wall, instead of a new wall having been erected as it is now.

Here's what it looks like:

Stone steps with concrete wall beside patio; new wall slightly lower than adjacent wall. Potted plant on top; greenery and house in background.

As can be seen, it's not that bad. The wall aligns nicely laterally with the old one, but to me, it is disturbing that the top of the new wall is "close" to the extended line but not quite.

Here's how I imagine the extended line looks, and how much the wall would need to be raised to reach it:

Concrete walls forming a staircase boundary with a red line indicating desired height adjustment. A potted plant sits atop one wall.

Is it possible to achieve this raising, and if so, how should it be done? Drill for rebar, build a form around the upper part of the wall and fill with concrete? The wall is somewhat poorly plastered, so my thought is to re-plaster it at the same time as the old wall is plastered. This way the surface will be the same, which also contributes to the overall impression.

I have a lot of other casting/plastering questions around this part of the house, but I'll take them later. Either in this thread or I'll create new ones.

Hoping for tips and advice
/Fred
 
Maybe build up with a layer of lecasten or similar, then plaster? I would have covered the walls with a layer of some stone that is thin, gives a completely different feel and looks better!
 
The difference is probably too small to fit a layer of lecasten... I haven't measured it that carefully yet, just placed a somewhat straight board on edge on top of the old wall, but I estimate that the elevation near the stairs will be under two decimeters.

On the other side of the parking lot, there's also a wall, so that would also need to be clad if the walls shown in the picture are clad. The house's foundation is also plastered, so the idea is to paint everything in the same gray color to make it uniform.
 
Kramla
Hello!

If the wall you want to raise is cast in concrete, you should do the elevation in the way you described, with formwork, drilling for reinforcement dowels, etc. The most important thing is to clear away the plaster mortar on the crown of the wall beforehand, otherwise, the two layers will separate, resulting in a visible crack!

If the wall is built with leca, you can raise it in that way with leca, but you should cover the crown with some type of coping stone or sheet metal covering, regardless of whether it will be plastered or not. Make sure to use a-bruk or base mortar as the construction requires it.

Best regards, Kramla
 
Hello Kramla and thank you for the response!

The wall I want to raise is cast in concrete. Good with the tip about clearing away the plaster on the top... I'm not sure I would have thought of that myself.

When you mention rebar dowels, what do you mean by that? Is it a specific type of reinforcement product?

Also, is there any way to seal between the form and the existing wall? I don't want the concrete to run down the sides before it has set.
 
Kramla
No, not to my knowledge, I mean short reinforcing bars that you drill down vertically in the top edge and let them rise up to 5cm from the new top, it looks like about a 20cm wide wall in the picture, so zigzag these 5cm in from the edge and tie some bars horizontally as well. (8mm bars should be enough)

Forming isn't my thing.. But make it as tight against the existing wall as possible, I wouldn't recommend any type of latex in the joint, rather it shouldn't be a problem to scrape the side afterwards since you have plaster on the sides and also need to supplement with new plaster on this!
 
I actually think you're thinking wrong aesthetically.........I think it looks good as it is now because if you look at the old wall, it leans a bit and if you follow that line, the new one merges with the old. From the photographer's perspective, you can also see the staircase at the top. With such a high wall that you want, you won't be able to see that.

If you want to think aesthetically in every way, I would cut away the wall as much as possible and make nice wrought iron stair railings instead, but that's just me..........
 
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Stefan1972 said:
I actually think you're thinking wrong aesthetically......I think it looks good as it is now because if you look at the old wall it's tilted slightly and if you follow that line, the new one merges with the old one..
That's not true, as I wrote, I placed a plank on edge on the old wall that extended over the new one, and then there's the gap that the red line shows in the second picture.

Stefan1972 said:
From the photographer's perspective, you can also see the top of the stairs. With such a high wall you want, you won't be able to see it.
The picture is deceiving. I'm not standing upright when I take the picture, because then the internal lines of the walls wouldn't be visible. Perhaps I should have explained this in the post. Here's a picture that's more at normal eye level:

Stone stairs and retaining walls in a garden setting, with a potted plant on the right wall, and the front of a yellow car visible on the left.

Stefan1972 said:
If you want to think aesthetically in all ways, I would cut away the wall as much as possible and make nice wrought iron railings instead, but that's just me..........
Cutting the walls is not feasible for several reasons. For example, they hold a large amount of soil, so half the plot would need to be reengineered, and the old wall is extremely hard and immensely labor-intensive to process at all. However, I can agree that the old wall feels a bit "blocky," so if I had built it, I would have made it a bit more delicate...but it was already there, and we did the best we could with the situation.
 
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I don't mean the line you're talking about, but rather follow the entire slope of the wall, meaning the line from the outer edge of the left wall to the new one. That way, you'll get the same slope for the whole wall as a whole. I assume that's what they did when they made the new one.
 
Aha, you think so... no, that wasn't how they thought, and it doesn't match reality.

It's very difficult to photograph in a way that gives those who have never been here a true representation of how everything is connected, but as I wrote earlier, I wanted to create the illusion that the part of the old wall extending from the facade actually went all the way to where the concrete slab is. In other words, that it was a continuous wall, without an opening for the stairs and without the outward angle. Then someone (we) thought that a staircase would be useful there, so an opening was cut, the stairs were installed, and the outward angle was erected to create a small enclosed area between the house and the stairs.
 
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