Is it necessary to fill before tiling? A few mm level difference can be compensated with the adhesive, right?
 
  • Like
Marijairena
  • Laddar…
useless useless said:
Do you need to putty if you're going to tile? A few mm level difference can be compensated for with the adhesive, right?
I wouldn't have puttied either but resolved it with the adhesive. A couple of mm is no problem to resolve with adhesive.
 
  • Like
Marijairena
  • Laddar…
Handyman 1 said:
Did you set any studs in the seam?
No, I didn't do that. It hasn't been done on the other drywall pieces before. Strong studs, 4 pieces that run vertically with 2 pieces about 500 mm apart and one with 250 mm apart.
What happens if I haven't done it now?
The board even feels more stable than the old one.
 
A
Since the boards don't have support behind the joints, there's a high risk of cracking (the surface layer) when they can move freely. Typically, a loose wooden piece is screwed into the joint so the board pieces stay together :)
 
Handyman 1 said:
Since the panels don't have support behind the joints, there is a high risk of cracking (the surface layer) when they can move freely. Usually, you just screw a loose piece of wood at the joint so the panel pieces hold together:)
Can I redo the whole thing? Remove the screws and buy a new drywall panel? Probably shouldn't have listened to my son‍♀️
 
M Marijairena said:
Can I redo the whole thing? Remove the screws and buy a new drywall? Probably shouldn't have listened to my son‍♀️
Yes, just loosen the screws, place the supports behind, and reattach the same drywall. Just don't screw into the same holes and it'll be fine.

Next time, also try to get the screws a bit deeper into the drywall; it looks from the picture like you could drive them in a couple more mm so they don't protrude from the drywall.
 
Henkan Sundberg Henkan Sundberg said:
Yes, you just need to loosen the screws, place the supports behind, and screw in the same drywall again. Just avoid screwing into the same holes, and it will be fine.

Next time, you should also try to get the screws a bit deeper into the drywall. From the picture, it looks like you could drive them in a couple more millimeters so they don't protrude from the drywall.
:D I will try that then with the same drywall and just buy something that can be used as studs.
I understand that one can use a smaller dimension than the robust ones that run vertically?
At least now I know how to do it. Very grateful
 
M Marijairena said:
:D I'll try that with the same drywall and just buy something that can be used as studs. I understand that I can use a smaller dimension than the sturdy ones that run vertically? Now I know how I'll do it. Very thankful
You don't need to have studs of the same dimension but find something at the local hardware store that seems good. This is a stud that would work and is not too expensive and easy to fit in the car as it is not very long.

https://www.byggmax.se/45x70-kortregel-p08145071
 
Great! We are going to Byggmax. Better to redo it correctly so there won't be any issues later with tiles etc. Thank you for your help!
There will probably be more questions in the forum in the future.
 
M Marijairena said:
Great! We're going to Byggmax. Better to redo it correctly so there won't be problems later with tiles, etc. Thanks for your help! There will probably be more questions here in the forum in the future.
These studs can be found at all hardware stores (not just Byggmax), I just picked one so you could see which I meant.

If you want, you can upload a picture here once you've installed the studs and before the plasterboard, so there won't be any more misunderstandings.
 
  • Like
Marijairena
  • Laddar…
Henkan Sundberg Henkan Sundberg said:
These studs are available at all building supply stores (not just Byggmax), I just picked one so you could see what I meant.

If you want, you can upload a picture here after you've put up the studs and before the plasterboard to avoid any more misunderstandings.
Just wanted to check to be sure. I'm not sure if I was clear about it in my first post. Does this also apply to the studs if you're going to put up tiles later?
Curious
 
M Marijairena said:
Just wanted to check to be sure. I don't know if I was clear about it in my first post. Does this apply to the studs even if you're going to put up tiles afterward?
Curious
I would have done it to be on the safe side so that the drywall doesn't move and the grout cracks. It's not that much time/effort/money to get it right, and then you're on the safe side.
 
  • Like
Marijairena
  • Laddar…
It's enough to place a few scraps right over the seams so it doesn't flex too much.

Wooden studs in a partially removed wall with drywall seams marked, suggesting placement of scrap pieces to prevent flexing.
 
  • Like
Henkan Sundberg and 1 other
  • Laddar…
As for the screws, you should not drive them in so far that the paper tears. If you don't have the right fingertip feeling, it's better to drive them in a little too little. They will still be covered by the tiles later.
 
  • Like
Marijairena
  • Laddar…
useless useless said:
It's enough to put some scrap pieces right over the joints so it doesn't flex too much.

[image]
Ok, different variations. Thanks for the clear picture! Will redo anyway, unscrew the board, buy a new one, IF the existing one gets too damaged.
 
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.