If possible, they can be geras to obtain a horizontal surface.
For your part, it will rather be that you expose more end grain. I would have changed the design of the cut. First vertically in the line of the frame, then angled cut/horizontal cut
The eave on the first image does not look right. As previously mentioned, if you want to clad the eave, you want a horizontal surface for the baseboards (no. 3 in the image).
But if you are not going to clad the eave, it can look like this:
The angle at the end of the roof truss also affects the width and slope of the fascia board, where different designs can be used to achieve different appearances. And the angle influences the choice of gutter brackets attached to the fascia board, if you are using that type of brackets, as some of those brackets do not work with different angles on the fascia board, for example, this one which only works at 27° on the fascia board:
I'm thinking of skipping the red line and attaching the ceiling joists with angles or through screws from underneath. I've read some other threads and it apparently becomes stable enough with angles, at least for a cold storage of 5x3.5 meters.
I understand the blue line. However, I'm thinking that I'll first make a vertical cut flush with the wall stud. That way, I can attach the battens and facade higher up. Additionally, the covering of the eaves will be sleeker, smoother (i.e., it looks neater).
Many people make an underlying miter to make the construction look a bit more slender. Not so heavy. The outermost part of the beam doesn't have much weight to handle. I think it looks nice, even if I haven't done it myself, because I'm lazy. I wouldn't make the cut as you planned to raise the nail rule.
in the picture above, I have both made a cut to raise the nailing rule (and the facade) and a long horizontal cut (to taper the roof rule and get optimal support against the wall plate).
