Hi.
I don't know if this is the right department for the question, but this is the closest I found...

It's about my bathroom, size about 9.5m2, where I’ve now removed the old concrete, replaced the drains, and refilled the hole in the base plate with coarse concrete.

* On the "base plate," water pipes will be laid to each place, and this will be embedded in about 50-70mm EPS Concrete.
* On this, the underfloor heating will be laid (waterborne) along with a small reinforcement mesh.

The question.....
The problem I have is, what should I embed the underfloor heating in?? (Height to Floor level from EPS concrete about 80-100mm??
* I was planning to do it like this.... Install underfloor heating and reinforcement on the EPS concrete, embed it in something like fine concrete, leaving about 40-50 mm to the floor level for the tiler to self-level for slope etc.... BUT.......
- The carpenter says I should use self-leveling compound for the underfloor heating because if I use concrete (of any kind, like fine concrete), I would need to wait about 2 months before the tiler can self-level and lay tiles due to shrinkage...(??)

- The tiler says I should embed the underfloor heating in concrete, otherwise it will be VERY EXPENSIVE to self-level 80-100mm....

So, now I'm asking YOU..... how should I do it??? What tips do you have?? How have you done it??

Grateful for answers.... // Roy
 
No problem putting it in EPS if you place it high and then go with a thicker plate with it. That's what my brother did, and that's what I'll do in the fall.
 
Huggan... ok, so if I cast with EPS "high", then lay out the reinforcement, lay the underfloor heating pipes, and cover with EPS?? Then just float on??
 
You only cast once with EPS and must then have placed the reinforcement mesh with the hose at the correct level with spacers. Then a regular leveling compound on top within 3 days.
 
At our place, they cast the underfloor heating into lecakulor and after that they did self-leveling.
 
The hose should NOT be cast into the EPS concrete (or Lecakulor either) as it has an insulating effect. Do like this from top to bottom: 1-2 cm float, 7-8 cm concrete with embedded reinforcement and gv-slang, and then the rest EPS down to the bottom.
 
Error, no problem casting into EPS concrete as long as you place it at the surface as I mentioned. It is proven and works without any issues.
 
"Underfloor heating should never be placed in the EPSCement mix. Since EPSCement itself is heat-insulating, in such a case, the heat cannot optimally spread from the mix to the floor surface."

The above is taken from the eps-cement page. It probably still works if you lay it so that it is visible. In such cases, I would scrape clean around the pipe so that it can be enclosed by the self-leveling compound for the best heat distribution. Then, one should keep in mind that eps-cement costs significantly more and only has half as good insulation properties as foam, so it's probably best to pour a concrete layer on foam.
 
As mentioned, no problem with casting in EPS concrete as long as it's placed on the surface as I said. It's tested and works without any issues.
 
Jeppeknaster: No problem to cast into gv-lang in concrete, the only drawback is the curing time. About 2 months. Before it can be leveled and covered with tiles... that's why I prefer to avoid that.
Right now, I'm leaning towards grooving in the EPS, then laying the gv pipe in the grooves, reinforcement on top, and then floating everything with about 30-40 mm float. This gives me about 100-110 mm EPS at the base.
 
Saw it in the other thread:) It will probably be great, will probably do the same myself when the time comes
 
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