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30 replies
Plastic or not plastic, unheated chicken coop
Eh, it works perfectly. It's not a residential building you're constructing, and my opinion is "never any plastic in unheated space." I have my outbuildings built that way, and it works perfectly even with mineral wool, as long as it's moisture-proof.Mazen said:
Exactly my thought, to skip the plastic so it can ventilate through.A AndersS said:
Then I'll go as planned but plan the ventilation better.
In a chicken coop, there is moisture stress from the inside.
I would use sheet material and seal the joints, not for air but to prevent mites from finding spaces. So minimize joints and other areas where pests can use as a habitat.Mazen said:
Link to one of Martin's chicken breeds
http://kulturhons.se/raser/silveruddsbla-2/
Homeowner
· Småländska höglandet
· 5 642 posts
Formplyfa (a little expensive) or some kind of smooth sheet metal (may be cheaper) is recommended for the inner walls.
If you want Swedish country chickens, many breeds with local adaptation, there is the Svenska Lanthönsklubben at www.kackel.se .
If you want Swedish country chickens, many breeds with local adaptation, there is the Svenska Lanthönsklubben at www.kackel.se .
SågspånPappspikEternit said:
K-plyfa is planned and I think the owners were planning to paint it (but maybe that's a bad idea?)SågspånPappspikEternit said:
The most important thing is still the size. It doesn't matter how many chickens you plan for - there always ends up being more in the chicken coop for some strange reason.
For example, I was supposed to have five, but now there are ten out here and plans for more.
(I have different breeds to get different egg colors.)
Moreover, there are often restrictions on outdoor time nowadays, for example right now. You can only keep them inside or possibly outside if you have them under a roof there. So it's better to have a larger house so they can walk around inside without getting bored to death = greater risk of pecking and other nonsense if they're cramped in a small area for too long. They often don't want to go out if it's freezing or pouring rain either, so always good to have a big chicken coop.
Moreover, there are often restrictions on outdoor time nowadays, for example right now. You can only keep them inside or possibly outside if you have them under a roof there. So it's better to have a larger house so they can walk around inside without getting bored to death = greater risk of pecking and other nonsense if they're cramped in a small area for too long. They often don't want to go out if it's freezing or pouring rain either, so always good to have a big chicken coop.
Homeowner
· Småländska höglandet
· 5 642 posts
As flooring, I think concrete flooring is the best by far. Secondly, if you can't/won't pour a slab, you can use smooth concrete tiles. We've laid 40x40 cm concrete tiles for one of our groups with poultry, works very well and easy to clean. It also doesn't get slippery for either animals or humans. A plastic mat risks becoming terribly slippery, and a wooden floor is difficult to keep clean.Mazen said:
This thing with mice again... you don't have to invite them (a feeder that's full at night) or make it easy for them (insulation in the walls that's easy for mice to build nests in), but that a few mice come to the hen house is more or less unavoidable and not a disaster. Chickens actually hunt and eat mice. They even hunt in flocks!
I've been a chicken owner for about 15 years, and it's almost impossible to imagine a life without them
If you're planning to have vents with insect nets, position them so they’re easy to clean. The dust that accumulates in a hen house can clog the vents quite quickly if using insect nets. Speaking from experience! ;-)A AndersS said:No plastic and hens have survived historically in uninsulated hen houses. But insulation in the walls alone does no harm, it's enough to have it windproof on the outside of the insulation. But there should also be ventilation. With natural draft, add a roof cowl for the best outflow. And as noted, make sure to seal and install rodent barriers.
Hm.. a concrete floor would be optimal but here we're talking about a smaller shed model with a frame on leca or slabs.SågspånPappspikEternit said:
As a floor, I think concrete floors are by far the best. As a second option, if you can't/won't cast a slab, you can use smooth concrete slabs. We have laid 40x40 cm concrete slabs in one of our poultry groups, works very well and easy to clean. Also doesn't become slippery for either animals or humans. A plastic mat risks becoming horribly slippery, and a wooden floor is difficult to keep clean.
Maybe I can level the floor
Or lay slabs on the floor..
Homeowner
· Småländska höglandet
· 5 642 posts
A simple foundation of (plastered?) lecablock that the walls rest on, a padded (or firmly tamped with a lower level of ambition) gravel bed inside with concrete slabs laid as the floor.
Yes, that would be a possibility as it would still need to be excavated and leveled for the leca/slabs.SågspånPappspikEternit said:
I need to investigate the conditions further because I don't want to build a construction that risks settling...
Thanks for all the answers.. at least it won't be any plastic