I have an old house with a crawl space. It has natural ventilation that has been supplemented with an intake vent.
I have noticed that in some walls there is vapor plastic and in some paper. Should I gradually replace with the same material as I renovate, or should I put paper in all walls/ceiling?
The reason for replacing is that I will be replacing all the insulation gradually as we renovate, as mice have done their job in the insulation that has been in place for up to 40 years.
I have noticed that in some walls there is vapor plastic and in some paper. Should I gradually replace with the same material as I renovate, or should I put paper in all walls/ceiling?
The reason for replacing is that I will be replacing all the insulation gradually as we renovate, as mice have done their job in the insulation that has been in place for up to 40 years.
either all plastic or all paper.
with the right plastic, it works.
but checking how the entire wall looks is a big problem.
how big is your house?
but checking how the entire wall looks is a big problem.
how big is your house?
It seems like the ground floor, which consists mostly of stud walls, has paper or nothing at all. The upper floor, which has steep walls/roofs, has plastic. Should I replace with the same or use paper for everything?
Sent from my MB860 using Byggahus
Sent from my MB860 using Byggahus
Is it regular wool insulation (glass wool/stone wool)?
The presence or absence of plastic is actively discussed. The latest I heard from a friend who is a building engineer is that they have started to question plastic in the walls, but that it should be used against the outer roof if you do not insulate with diffusion-open material.
Since it has obviously worked for 40 years in your house, I would keep plastic in the roof/sloped roof, but only use building paper in the walls.
The presence or absence of plastic is actively discussed. The latest I heard from a friend who is a building engineer is that they have started to question plastic in the walls, but that it should be used against the outer roof if you do not insulate with diffusion-open material.
Since it has obviously worked for 40 years in your house, I would keep plastic in the roof/sloped roof, but only use building paper in the walls.
Yes, that's probably the best. But as I said, I think mineral wool does well in the walls. Will you increase the insulation or will it be about the same as before? If you're not making any major changes, I would do it as it was before; it obviously works.
But as I said, this is not an exact science. There will probably be many comments about increased moisture pressure etc. on areas without plastic.
I myself have added extra insulation to the roofs on the upper floor and used plastic. The walls are original without plastic (cutterspån and wood). I haven't had any problems with moisture in the attic or similar.
But as I said, this is not an exact science. There will probably be many comments about increased moisture pressure etc. on areas without plastic.
I myself have added extra insulation to the roofs on the upper floor and used plastic. The walls are original without plastic (cutterspån and wood). I haven't had any problems with moisture in the attic or similar.
Be careful with the plastic. If you must use plastic, you should be very diligent when constructing the walls. There are examples of log houses that couldn’t handle such insulation, and there are houses that have managed it. However, it is a very unforgiving way to renovate an old log house, leaving little room for mistakes. If you skip the plastic and don't use mineral wool, the renovation will be considerably more enjoyable and easier. In the long run, the house will also have a better chance of surviving. There is significant historical value in log houses because they are becoming fewer and fewer; we who live in this part of the country believe we should preserve our architectural heritage since it is unique in Sweden, with the exception of Öland and Gotland.
Moreover, the roof and sloped ceilings are the last places I would use plastic. Consider the air gap between the log and insulation and leave a bit free at the top if you choose plastic-covered walls, and ensure proper ventilation in all rooms.
Moreover, the roof and sloped ceilings are the last places I would use plastic. Consider the air gap between the log and insulation and leave a bit free at the top if you choose plastic-covered walls, and ensure proper ventilation in all rooms.
Thank you for a detailed answer.
Just a couple of follow-up questions...
I only have båle in the walls on the lower floor, and in these walls, there is no plastic today.
I plan to continue with paper as it is today.
In the walls that border a kattvind up there and in the ceiling, there is plastic, but I don't know what insulation is there, but I suspect mineral.
Maybe safest to use paper everywhere and cellulose insulation???
Just a couple of follow-up questions...
I only have båle in the walls on the lower floor, and in these walls, there is no plastic today.
I plan to continue with paper as it is today.
In the walls that border a kattvind up there and in the ceiling, there is plastic, but I don't know what insulation is there, but I suspect mineral.
Maybe safest to use paper everywhere and cellulose insulation???
This is how it looks in all the "modern" bålehus I know of. It is certainly safest to use cardboard and some type of insulation that can buffer moisture, especially if you plan to do it in stages. Hopefully, there is no reason to tear down what you have upstairs, but it's important to keep an eye on the roof to ensure it remains intact. I can recommend replacing the cardboard with some form of fabric, e.g., bisonduk, which is easier to put up and significantly more durable.