Hello!
I'm currently plastering and jointing.
It's going well where beveled edges meet each other, here I apply a thin layer of joint compound, fiberglass tape, and then a covering layer of compound directly. That works quite well.
But where you have a cut edge against a beveled edge, or 2 cut edges against each other, how do you handle this?
I've tried cutting, sanding, tinkering, filing, and rasping. I've removed about 5 cm of paper to get the beveling similar to the factory finish, so that the tape and compound can fit without bulging out on the wall.
There must be a trick for this? It takes so much time, and the best results I've had are with the Morakniv from the methods I've tried...
Best regards
I'm currently plastering and jointing.
It's going well where beveled edges meet each other, here I apply a thin layer of joint compound, fiberglass tape, and then a covering layer of compound directly. That works quite well.
But where you have a cut edge against a beveled edge, or 2 cut edges against each other, how do you handle this?
I've tried cutting, sanding, tinkering, filing, and rasping. I've removed about 5 cm of paper to get the beveling similar to the factory finish, so that the tape and compound can fit without bulging out on the wall.
There must be a trick for this? It takes so much time, and the best results I've had are with the Morakniv from the methods I've tried...
Best regards
No idea if it's the right way or not, but I usually do the following:
-bevel the edges with a sharp knife
-fill the bevel with putty
-glue a paper strip with wallpaper paste over the putty when it has dried
-putty about 30 cm out from the strip so that it becomes a very shallow bump.
The strip is only about 1mm thick, so if you putty wide it barely shows.
-bevel the edges with a sharp knife
-fill the bevel with putty
-glue a paper strip with wallpaper paste over the putty when it has dried
-putty about 30 cm out from the strip so that it becomes a very shallow bump.
The strip is only about 1mm thick, so if you putty wide it barely shows.
okay, so you just make a V-joint between the boards...
it might work better with a paper tape, the fiberglass tape feels like you want it in the middle of the plaster so it doesn't risk coming out...
maybe you should switch to using paper tape...
it might work better with a paper tape, the fiberglass tape feels like you want it in the middle of the plaster so it doesn't risk coming out...
maybe you should switch to using paper tape...
I usually fill with gypsum filler, it doesn't shrink like regular filler. Then it's important to use waterproof glue for the paper strips!
I tend to use wet room primer as glue... It’s so thin that it doesn't matter if it "spills" a little on the sides of the paper strips. Just make sure to glue the strip properly and let it dry otherwise it easily bubbles when the wet filler comes on.
I tend to use wet room primer as glue... It’s so thin that it doesn't matter if it "spills" a little on the sides of the paper strips. Just make sure to glue the strip properly and let it dry otherwise it easily bubbles when the wet filler comes on.
Then the question is why you get a cut edge against another?
Assuming you have OSB underneath, start with a half sheet in the corner, cut edge into the corner, then just stack them up until the next corner. Don't fuss with pieces at doors and windows, just go ahead and cut out.
Paper tape every day of the week, glued with fabric/wet room adhesive.
Assuming you have OSB underneath, start with a half sheet in the corner, cut edge into the corner, then just stack them up until the next corner. Don't fuss with pieces at doors and windows, just go ahead and cut out.
Paper tape every day of the week, glued with fabric/wet room adhesive.
Yeah, you see, I hadn't thought of that, maybe I should do that instead... plasterboard is quite cheap...Stefan N said:
But I haven't had a cut edge from floor to ceiling, only around windows and above doors; it gets like that if you're trying to get the maximum out of each sheet, but plasterboard is quite cheap, so it might not be worth it... I'll try just going for it in the next room, then you can measure how many sheets you need and cut the first sheet so that it fits reasonably well at the end.
Regards,
j
As long as you don't start with a whole board, many carpenters who aren't supposed to plaster in the corner do it out of sheer ignorance. If you have a cut edge, you just apply a little soft sealant and then it's done.
at least I've picked that up, I go with cut edges in the corners anyway 
damn, so many mistakes I make
paper tape SHOULD be used... I've bought loads of fiberglass tape and quite like them... is it just a matter of tearing down the walls and starting over with paper tape?
paper tape SHOULD be used... I've bought loads of fiberglass tape and quite like them... is it just a matter of tearing down the walls and starting over with paper tape?
Yes, it's a bit funny that this thing with paper and fiberglass always has to be presented and discussed as some kind of "Aftonbladet or Expressen" discussion when in reality the industry regulations are quite clear that paper tape is what applies in all exposed applications (and thus the most sustainable). Have we now gone so far as to say that paper tape should always be used?
At least then we can avoid that discussion anymore on the forum...
At least then we can avoid that discussion anymore on the forum...
Calm down... fiberglass tape works great 9 times out of 10... I have fiberglass tape all over the house and there isn't a single crack anywhere...thestrut said:Wow, how many mistakes I make
Paper tape SHOULD be used... I have bought lots of fiberglass tape and feel quite good with them... do I just tear the walls down and start over with paper tape?
I'm working on an extension right now, and there are a couple of places where I have a cut edge like you, there I cut the tapes so that they lie edge to edge with the cut edge, then I fill it completely flat...
Then I have a special method in a couple of places where I know the house can move... there I have mixed 12mm fiberglass into the filler, the kind used as reinforcement in self-leveling compound... it won't crack
Paper tape is a notch stronger than fiberglass tape... and if you are a professional, you naturally want to minimize all possibilities of claims... but as a DIY enthusiast, it just feels like a waste of precious time to use both belt and suspenders.
Currently working on an extension, and there I have a couple of places where I have the cut edge in the same way as you, where I cut the strips so that they lie edge to edge with the cut edge, then I spackle it completely flat...
what do you mean here? so the strip goes over the factory-beveled edge significantly more and extends toward the cut edge.
so there is no overlap of both boards, which I thought was the whole point of strips...
I have used fiberglass in the bedroom upstairs and it is crack-free so far even though I lifted the whole house this summer, but the corners cracked a lot but I think I didn't have a strip there as far as I remember, but for the corners downstairs I have metal corner profiles between osb and drywall, so it should hold up well
what do you mean here? so the strip goes over the factory-beveled edge significantly more and extends toward the cut edge.
so there is no overlap of both boards, which I thought was the whole point of strips...
I have used fiberglass in the bedroom upstairs and it is crack-free so far even though I lifted the whole house this summer, but the corners cracked a lot but I think I didn't have a strip there as far as I remember, but for the corners downstairs I have metal corner profiles between osb and drywall, so it should hold up well
See the picture... the cut edge is beveled at approximately 45 degrees... so the tape covers the edge of the board. I don't think you should have wide plastered seams on the wall...thestrut said:how do you mean here? the joint tape goes in over the factory-beveled edge significantly more and sticks out towards the cut edge. so you don't get an overlap of both boards, which I thought was the whole point of the tape...
regarding gluing paper tapes... the tapes are meant to reinforce the plaster, not the boards... there is a reason the tape should lie between two layers of plaster.