N
Yes, and how much time do you have then? You haven't answered.
 
N neo11 said:
Yes, and how much time do you have then? You haven't answered.
We are still negotiating about that. A company will remove the existing heat pump, connect a temporary VVB, and then I will have some time to cast a base, lay tiles, sand walls, plaster, and paint before the new equipment is installed.
However, I don't think I'll ever get the time really needed if everything is to be done by the book...
 
N
Ok, then the wall isn't your biggest concern. If you plaster it with c mortar, you can paint it with silicate after 1 week. If you're not going by the book, you can paint after 3 days. I'm more worried if casting the threshold and tiles are connected.
Then you should wait at least a month unless you're using fast-setting concrete like weber 318.
 
N neo11 said:
Ok, then the wall is not your biggest concern. If you plaster it with c mortar, you can paint it with silicate after 1 week. If you don't follow the book, you can paint after 3 days. I'm more worried if casting a footing and laying tiles go together. Then you should wait at least a month unless you use something like Weber 318 rotbetong.
What I've read in many places is that you should wait at least 8 weeks after plastering before painting, BUT I’m just a happy amateur who has to search for information and form my own opinion.

Then it is entirely correct that in the same place a footing will be cast and tiles laid, but I have started a separate thread about this. I have found Weber's products to be very good to work with and thank you for the tip about Weber 318, which seems to be a good alternative.
 
N
1 week is enough, no matter the color. Of course, there are different conditions, but after 1 week the plaster has cured enough to color it unless it pours rain every day. I mostly work outdoors.
Indoors, there are no problems.
The only paint you need to wait 6-8 weeks for is Engwall and Classeon linoljefärg.
 
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I had plastered with white tile adhesive and then painted. Did it in my basement 4 years ago, cheap, good, and has not cracked in a single place for four years despite poor drainage.
 
A August Eriksson said:
I had putty with white tile adhesive and then painted. Did it in my basement 4 years ago, cheap, good, and hasn't cracked in a single place in four years despite poor drainage.
I puttied the first layer with regular gray adhesive, slightly cheaper than the white light adhesive. Skip gypsum plaster, etc., and go for something cement-based instead. I painted 2 or 3 days after the puttying.
 
N
During pipe replacements, they often use 318 on the floor instead of concrete, as they don't have time to wait for the concrete to shrink before tile installation. However, I don't work with pipe replacements myself.
 
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Krille-72 Krille-72 said:
NO, absolutely DO NOT use gypsum plaster. If you use gypsum plaster, you can forget about silicate paint.
I don't quite understand your problem? Sand away the plastic paint behind the stove if you deem it necessary. Replace with silicate paint. If you need to fill holes, Ardex, for example, has many fast-drying products.
Now I'm curious. Why not, and why not silicate on it?
Proper gypsum plaster allows moisture through, as I understand it.
 
N
Gypsum plaster does not handle moisture at all, so I don't think it lets moisture through.
 
O [old rusty] said:
Now I'm curious. Why not, and why not silicate on?
Proper gypsum plaster allows moisture to pass through as I understand it.
Gypsum and moisture do not go together. Therefore, it is much better to use a cement-based product in an environment where there is a risk of moisture.
There is no danger in using gypsum in situations such as a bathroom.

When it comes to silicate paint, it works just as well on gypsum as a cement-based plaster as long as there is no moisture in the wall. If there is moisture, silicate paint works better with a cement-based plaster. This is because gypsum retains moisture better.

But no plaster, silicate paint, or gypsum can withstand substantial moisture impact.
 
P-plats P-plats said:
Assume you can't tile on a newly plastered wall just like you shouldn't paint within a certain time.
Tiles shouldn't be laid on newly poured concrete for example...
Why can't you tile?
Sand/scrape away, adhesive and tile. There's no reason to plaster the wall first if it's not really uneven. But the tile won't get damaged regardless. The reason you don't lay tiles on a newly poured concrete slab is probably because the concrete "shrinks" so the tiles come loose.
 
GoC GoC said:
Why can't you tile?
Sand/scrape off, mortar and tile. There's no reason to plaster the wall first unless it's really uneven. But the tile won't be damaged anyway. The reason you don't lay tiles on a newly poured concrete slab is that the concrete "shrinks," causing the tiles to come loose.
Of course I could, BUT I don't have tiles anywhere else in the basement. Also, the plaster is poor after previous moisture problems and very porous in some areas, so something needs to be done even before potentially installing tiles or painting.
 
Krille-72 Krille-72 said:
Gypsum and moisture do not mix. Therefore, it's much better to use a cement-based product in an environment where there is a risk of moisture. There's no problem using gypsum in, for example, a bathroom.

When it comes to silicate paint, it works just as well on gypsum as it does on a cement-based substrate as long as there's no moisture in the wall. If there is moisture, silicate paint works better with a cement-based substrate. This is because gypsum retains moisture better.

But no plaster, silicate paint, or gypsum can withstand significant moisture exposure.
I don't agree with some that gypsum can't handle any moisture at all. The oldest wall in the basement is now in its twelfth year with gypsum and silicate on it, 1930s basement with original drainage. It's sitting well and there are no visual problems. What was there before was plaster or filler, painted with plastic paint, that had completely come off 50 cm up. So, clearly there is moisture there.

I also have a gypsum-filled wall that got 10 cm of water up on it. I was completely sure that I would have to redo the filling, but it stubbornly stayed put.

Of course, real plaster is more durable. But the simplicity and surface you can achieve make me use gypsum filling despite this.
 
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D
5 weeks of drying before silicate paint
 
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