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6 replies
2k views
6 replies
Plank: screwed top rail into post end grain - action?
Hello,
When I built the fence about 2 years ago, I screwed the top rail directly from above into the end grain of the posts. At that time, I didn't know any better, but now I know that it might not be preferred. Everything is built with pressure-treated wood, where at least the posts are NTR A and possibly even the top rail. Fastened with sturdy, galvanized wood screws.
To my question: for this to last in the long term, would it be good if I apply something to the screw head to prevent moisture travel down along it? Should I redo it and attach it another way? Or can I leave it as it is with a clear conscience?
When I built the fence about 2 years ago, I screwed the top rail directly from above into the end grain of the posts. At that time, I didn't know any better, but now I know that it might not be preferred. Everything is built with pressure-treated wood, where at least the posts are NTR A and possibly even the top rail. Fastened with sturdy, galvanized wood screws.
To my question: for this to last in the long term, would it be good if I apply something to the screw head to prevent moisture travel down along it? Should I redo it and attach it another way? Or can I leave it as it is with a clear conscience?
Can you access to angle screw from below?
All types of caps should always be fastened from underneath to avoid water standing at the screw. Additionally, it's advantageous if there is a slight slope on the cap.
All types of caps should always be fastened from underneath to avoid water standing at the screw. Additionally, it's advantageous if there is a slight slope on the cap.
Yes, that should be possible! No option with angle brackets?maah said:
Suggestions for addressing the current screw? Pull it out and seal the hole with something?
Consider how long a decking floor lasts, where each screw is usually screwed from above.
Or for that matter, I replaced a section of a fence last summer that was at least 50 years old, where the top rail was non-pressure treated and nailed straight from above. Admittedly, it was stained, but it had sporadic maintenance that hadn't been done in 20 years.
Or for that matter, I replaced a section of a fence last summer that was at least 50 years old, where the top rail was non-pressure treated and nailed straight from above. Admittedly, it was stained, but it had sporadic maintenance that hadn't been done in 20 years.
Member
· Blekinge
· 11 704 posts
TS probably shouldn't worry. The water will seep into the cap rail even through cracks and other gaps. Sleep soundly for 10 years and then check if the cap rail needs replacing. Probably not.
I am completely convinced that it would last even with non-impregnated wood.
I am completely convinced that it would last even with non-impregnated wood.
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