The truss has dimensions of 50*230, and I don't feel any joint/splice over the wall. Additionally, there is some wood on top of the truss with a height of about 50 mm.
The lintel on the wall has dimensions of 90*50. I can't see the posts right now, but they are probably 95 wide if you look at the thickness of the wall.
Does anyone know what type of wood is on the truss and if it's possible to take down the wall without a permit, etc.?
Since you have already started tearing into it, I assume you plan to move the wall regardless of whether it is load-bearing or not. I suggest you continue demolishing until you have exposed the rafters and wall frame to make a better assessment before bringing in structural engineers or sending a notification to the municipality.
Torbjörn, it is correct that the wall should be removed and the idea is to put up a new inner wall (non-load bearing). If this current wall is load-bearing, then the municipality needs to be involved and a supporting beam needs to be installed.
Mcstewart, no, that wouldn't feel so great. So I thought I would first try to ask among knowledgeable people in the forum for some advice.
Here are a couple more pictures with plasterboard partially removed from the wall as well. Note specifically that the lintel (or whatever it's called) is not complete across the entire wall and that the post to the right of the door is attached to the frame. The center-to-center for the wall studs is 60, the same as the rafters. The lintel is attached to the rafter, but inner walls can/should be attached as well, right(?)
If the roof trusses are not configured differently than those that are free-bearing further out in the house, I don't think the wall is load-bearing (unless there's something on the upper floor/attic causing issues).
Any eventual reinforcement should have been done over the wall if that's the case - however, you should at least tear down the ceiling at the wall, so then you should see it...
It's a bit odd that there's a column plan drawn with the interior walls, though, if only the exterior walls are load-bearing?
Klaskarlsson, the ceiling should come down, yes, absolutely. I haven't felt any form of connection that would suggest a load distribution (at least not on the truss that I felt). There's no attic or upper floor; it was originally a flat roof without any slope even though a pitched roof was later added (uninsulated) to the flat roof.
I would prefer not to tear down other ceilings to look at the trusses. However, this part of the house (extension) was built at the same time, so the same type of material may have been used.
Klaskarlsson, the inner ceiling must come down, yes, absolutely. I have not felt any form of bonding that would indicate bridging (at least not on the roof truss I checked). There is no attic or upper floor, it is originally a flat roof without a slope, although a gable roof was later mounted (uninsulated) on the flat roof.
Prefer not to tear down other ceilings to look at the roof trusses. However, this part of the house (extension) was built at the same time, so the same type of material may have been used.
You should be able to get up with a lamp/camera at least so you can inspect the roof trusses without tearing down the whole roof?
If it's been remodeled in stages, this seems even more urgent, as you have less control over how the actual execution really is/varies
/K
Klaskarlsson, I agree that appropriate investigations should be conducted. The question is how to perform the inspection most easily without (major) damage, via the electrical ceiling box?
Edit:
I tried to bend out a ceiling box with limited success as it's terribly cramped and difficult to see, except that the roof truss seems to look the same in color (see the previous image).
Klaskarlsson, I agree that appropriate investigations should be made. The question is, how do you make the control easiest without (major) damage, via the electrical ceiling box?
Edit:
I tried to bend loose a ceiling box with limited success as it is terribly cramped and difficult to see, except that the roof truss seems to look the same in color (see the previous picture).
You have the hole you made - is it not possible to stick a lamp and a mobile there and film what it looks like above the insulation?
I thought you meant the other trusses (to the right in the rule planeb). This is how it looks at the relevant truss when you push the insulation aside.
In the other direction (next truss). It actually looks spliced?
Strange that the roof trusses aren't the same, but I will investigate the others when I completely remove the plaster. Thanks for all the help and guidance so far.
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