Beadboard on drywall

[kilroy]

Hello.

Can beadboard be mounted with adhesive or similar directly onto drywall? I don't want to use furring strips, it builds out too much.

 

[kilroy]

Seems to have been a tricky question...
However, I think it works to pull them in the beams that are c/c 60

 

[somelvis]

There are also beadboard MDF panels like brandens panelskiva.
These can be excellently glued.
Of course, it assumes that you want painted and not natural color.

Regards

 

[kilroy]

Yes, but it adds up. 149 SEK/sqm is the cheapest I've seen.

 

[Alfons_Helikopter]

Gluing every panel stick sounds messy and difficult.

Hmm...if it's ok to damage the drywall (e.g., with adhesive) why not cut out two-three horizontal strips from the drywall 10-15 cm wide and insert, for example, a 15 mm plywood in the hole and then nail the panel to it?

Or glue 30-40 cm wide strips of 4mm plywood directly onto the wall and find a couple of studs to put screws in, maybe.

 

[Teta]

Hello
It works just fine to screw in at the bottom and apply a string of sättlim horizontally at the top

 

[kilroy]

Teta: Do you think it's enough to screw c/c 60 into the studs I have and on the intermediate studs a string of adhesive horizontally?

 

[arny]

I have glued wall panels with adhesive. Sure, it's a bit messy, but it works well. I used brads in the grooves where there was something to hammer into. In some places where it was hard to apply pressure to the panel, I drove brads into the grooves at an angle into the drywall, even where there was only drywall behind, to fix the board in place until the adhesive dried. Just make sure to use good quality panels, because crooked boards are impossible to keep in place until the adhesive dries.

 

[Ingenjören]

I can only agree with the previous speaker (arny).
I have glued beadboard paneling to drywall with regular wood glue. If the panels aren't too warped, a single brad nail in the tongue is enough to hold it until the glue sets, even if the brad only fastens to the drywall.

/Ingenjören

 

[Milkshaken]

I would probably attach a thin läkt on the plasterboard to get some distance between the plasterboard and the panel.

just to get some air circulation, you also have the opportunity to level out any irregularities in the befi, wall.

I wouldn't bother with glue, as I don't think it belongs in panel work.

c/c 300 mm

 

[Ingenjören]

To Milkshaken -
Why do you want air circulation behind the interior panel?

In my case, with wainscoting, battens are not an option because the point is for it to connect nicely to window casings, etc. If the wall had been built from the start, I would naturally have had a board or nogging behind, but as an acceptable solution with an existing drywall, I can attest that glue works excellently for wainscoting if the panels are not too warped.

/Ingenjören

 

[kilroy]

Thought I'd get back with some feedback on today's work. I have now paneled a (drywall) wall with studs cc60, between the studs I've applied a line of PL600 and also used nails in the groove.

Works well!

 

[Tossegubbe]

Hot glue is a good and cheaper alternative to PL600 (if you don't buy it at the hardware store)

 

[Mikado]

Kicking life into the old thread.....

I'm also going to install wainscoting in the mudroom.
I have 13mm gypsum + 12 mm particle board to work against...

It should work to nail then, right? *top and bottom should be enough*?

Don't want to add battens, as that builds too much...

Kind regards

 

[Alpha]

My God yes, just make sure to use the right length of dyckert.

I probably would have put 3 in each on a paneling, surely 2 is enough.