I am going to install beadboard in a bedroom where there is currently stretched paper with wood paneling underneath. The room is 3.7m wide, and I planned to buy the beadboard in that length to avoid joints. But at the lumberyard, the closest length was 4m, and since the panel had end tongue, I decided to buy shorter lengths, thinking the end tongue would make a nice joint anyway and there would be less waste.
But in hindsight, I'm starting to wonder if I made a mistake because the end tongue might not make the joints much nicer than boards without end tongue that are cut straight. When joining without tongue, I've learned to miter the ends at a 45-degree angle to prevent gaps in the joint as the wood dries. But as I said, with tongue, it should be the same as cutting a non-tongued board straight.
I hope you understand what I mean because it feels like I’ve confused things a bit now. But the main question is whether I should return the wood I bought and purchase the 4m lengths instead to get a ceiling without joints, or will there be a nice joint with beadboard with end tongue?
But in hindsight, I'm starting to wonder if I made a mistake because the end tongue might not make the joints much nicer than boards without end tongue that are cut straight. When joining without tongue, I've learned to miter the ends at a 45-degree angle to prevent gaps in the joint as the wood dries. But as I said, with tongue, it should be the same as cutting a non-tongued board straight.
I hope you understand what I mean because it feels like I’ve confused things a bit now. But the main question is whether I should return the wood I bought and purchase the 4m lengths instead to get a ceiling without joints, or will there be a nice joint with beadboard with end tongue?
I just installed some beadboard in the ceiling.. buy screw clips!!! much easier than standing with a hammer above your head and trying to make it look nice - avoiding hitting the tongue and groove and pulling the last piece with a drift pin, etc..
My dad and I installed 15sqm in about 1h (full lengths of 3.6m cut to 3.5m)
Screw clips are available at K-rauta!
My dad and I installed 15sqm in about 1h (full lengths of 3.6m cut to 3.5m)
Screw clips are available at K-rauta!
I assume it's those http://www.gapro.se/uploads/files68.pdf, (you need to scroll down a bit on the page)? They really look convenient. I'll check if they are available to buy nearby because I have 12 miles to the nearest K-Rauta.
Can't find any clips nearby, so it will be nailing with dyckert.
When starting, do you place the first plank with the tongue against the wall and the fjädern outwards?
Fjädern, is that the "flärpen" next to the actual bead?Farzan said:
When starting, do you place the first plank with the tongue against the wall and the fjädern outwards?
When you described the room as 3.7m wide, I interpreted it as you intending to install the beadboard horizontally? Isn't it customary to install it lengthwise considering the light inlet, etc.? Not an expert by any means, just a thought since I am in the process of a similar project myself 
.
.Yes, from the door's point of view, the beadboard will be horizontal, but since the floorboards run in that direction, I felt I had no choice.tobbe72 said:When you described the room as 3.7m wide, I interpreted it as you're going to install the beadboard horizontally? Isn't it customary to install it lengthwise considering the light entry, etc.? I'm not an expert in any way, just a thought as I'm currently working on a similar project
Yes, the "flärpen" that fits into the groove called not.Tomas J said:
The answer to the second question is yes. You attach the first plank on the groove side too. Nail visibly far enough out towards the edge so that the ceiling list will cover it.
Perfect, easier to see in a picture how it should be, and that was how I understood it all but I mixed up the terms a bit in my post. I wrote that the nail should go between the pearl and the groove but I meant the TONGUE! Ok, but then it's just a matter of starting to nail, but I came up with another question. How close should you nail?John J said:
On each joist or approximately 500 - 600 mm betweenTomas J said: