Started garage wobbles

[kjellolov51]

Hello, I'm in the middle of building a double garage, when I went to install the roof boards I noticed the entire frame was wobbly. Is this normal?
Even now with all the roof boards on it still wobbles a bit, will this fix itself with the facade or when there's more weight due to the roof tiles?

I'm a bit worried that I missed something I should have installed haha, I'm attaching some pictures so you can see how the frame is constructed.

Otherwise, I'm thinking that the roof boards don't necessarily need to go all the way up to the ridge, the small gap of about 5-7cm I have now can be covered with paper, then I'll install ridge board holders, ridge board, and ridge insulation over there so it feels unnecessary to spend the time to make it perfect there, what do you think?

Edit: I assume the sill insulation, which is about 1 cm foam rubber, can make it all a bit wobblier?

You need to have braces in the corners on all sides.

 

[kjellolov51]

Tighten perforated tape on all wall sides as well

[link]

Hey, I'm in the middle of building a double garage, when I went up to lay the sheathing I noticed that the entire frame was wobbling. Is this normal?
Even now when all the sheathing is on it wobbles a bit, will this be fixed with the facade or when there is a bit more weight due to the roof tiles?

I'm a bit worried that I missed something that I should have put in haha, I'm attaching some pictures so you can see how the frame is built.

Furthermore, I think that the sheathing doesn't necessarily need to go all the way up to the ridge, the small gap of about 5-7cm that I have now can be covered with paper, then I'll put a ridge board holder, ridge board, and ridge insulation over there so it seems unnecessary to spend the time to get it perfect there, what do you think?

Edit: I assume that the sill insulation which is about 1 cm foam can make the whole thing a bit wobblier?

Since you've framed without diagonal braces in the corners, everything can collapse

 

[seniorkonsult]

Tension perforated strip on all wall sides as well

[link]

From the upper corner and diagonally down to the sill, 45 degrees is best.

 

[Seka70]

Hey, I'm in the middle of building a double garage, and when I went up to lay the raw planks, I noticed that the entire frame wobbled. Is this normal?
Even now when all the raw planks are on, it wobbles a bit. Will this be fixed with the facade or when there's a bit more weight due to roof tiles?

I'm a bit worried that I missed something I should have put in haha, I'm attaching some pictures so you can see how the frame is built.

By the way, I think the raw planks don't necessarily need to go all the way up to the ridge. The small gap of about 5-7 cm that I have now can probably be covered with paper, and then I'll put ridge board holders, ridge board, and ridge insulation over it, so it seems unnecessary to spend time getting it perfect there, what do you think?

Edit: I assume the sill insulation, which is about 1 cm foam rubber, might make the whole thing a bit wobblier?

In my opinion, there is a continuous joint on all the overlying roof beams in the middle section from start to finish; shouldn't these be doubled and jointed in different sections with (nail plates)?

Subsequently, a fixed top rail to hold it together?

Normally, you should have full-length beams or a central beam that captures the stability.

I know it's possible to construct in many different ways.

Contact an engineer and let them evaluate the pictures to start with, it should cost around 1,000-2,500 SEK to be on the safe side.

Have you received a building permit for this construction?
Or is the garage you're now building outside the detailed development area?

 

[Anders1st]

You must brace all walls with wind bracing until you have installed boards on all walls. This is to ensure that the frame is straight and square until you have full panel effect.

 

[gunnar blomkvist]

Hey, I'm in the middle of building a double garage, and when I went up to lay the roof decking, I noticed that the entire frame was wobbling. Is this normal?
Even now, with all the roof decking in place, it still wobbles a bit. Will this fix itself with the facade or when there's a bit more weight due to roof tiles?

I'm a little worried that I missed something I should have installed, haha. I'm attaching some pictures so you can see how the frame is constructed.

By the way, I'm thinking that the roof decking doesn't necessarily need to go all the way up to the ridge. The small gap of about 5-7 cm that I have now can be covered with felt. Then I'll be putting on ridge board holders, a ridge board, and ridge insulation over it, so it feels unnecessary to spend time getting it perfect there. What do you think?

Edit: I assume that the sill insulation, which is about 1 cm of foam rubber, could make it a bit more wobbly?

When I built a new balcony, I installed wires from corner to corner diagonally with turnbuckles. It became very stable.

 

[Nissens]

Hey, I'm in the middle of building a double garage, and when I went up to lay the wooden planks, I noticed that the entire frame was wobbling. Is this normal?
Even now, with all the wooden planks in place, it still wobbles a bit. Will this be fixed with the facade or when there's more weight due to the roof tiles?

I'm getting a bit worried that I might have missed something I should have put in haha, I'm attaching some pictures so you can see how the frame is constructed.

By the way, I think the wooden planks don't necessarily need to go all the way up to the ridge, the small gap of about 5-7cm that I have now can be covered with tar paper, then I'll put in ridge board holders, ridge board, and ridge insulation over there, so it feels unnecessary to spend the time to get it perfect there, what do you think?

Edit: I assume the sill insulation, which is about 1 cm of foam rubber, might make it a bit wobblier?

One thing I notice is that the roof trusses are only supported on a 45mm bearing surface at each end. It feels like there could be a very high pressure on a small area, especially with snow load, but otherwise too.

On my garage, I have a post directly under each roof truss. With 120 cc on the trusses, a truss ends up on every other post. I don't know if it's necessary, but it's sturdy with a significantly larger bearing surface.

 

[Nissens]

I would probably say that a stable sill is just as important as a stable wall plate. I have no braces or diagonal metal strips in my garage, and when it had a roof but no paneling, it was extremely stable.

The wall plate is not intended to take loads from above; it is meant to prevent the wall from bulging outward/inward.

 

[Mats-S]

Okay, so it's just something temporary?
Shouldn't the facade have the same effect once it's on? But absolutely, I will do that until the facade is up.

That's exactly what the facade will fix, once that panel is in place, it will be solid.

But during the construction period, you should definitely cross the frame so that it is properly fixed while you nail on the facade panel. After that, the interior with something like OSB boards will be added, further securing the whole house.

 

[Mats-S]

In my garage, I have a post directly under each rafter. With 120 cc on the rafters, a rafter lands on every other post. I don't know if it's necessary, but it becomes robust with a significantly larger bearing area.

That's exactly how you should build it; of course, there will be some exceptions along the way with windows and doors, but if possible, it's definitely better to place the rafter over a wall post.

 

[FredrikR]

One thing I notice is that the trusses only rest on a 45mm bearing surface at each end. It spontaneously feels like this could create a very large pressure on a small area, especially with snow load, but otherwise as well.

In my garage, I have a post directly under each truss. With 120 cc on the trusses, one truss ends up on every other post. I don't know if it's necessary, but it becomes robust with a significantly larger bearing surface.

Here you have recessed standing top chord/bearer as well, there is no danger with the placement of the trusses/wall studs.

 

[datja]

In my opinion, a continuous general splice has been constructed on all the overhead roof structures in the middle section from start to finish, shouldn't these be doubled and joined in different sections with (nail plates)?

Subsequently, a fixed top beam to hold it together?

Normally you should have full-length beams or a mid-running beam to capture stability.

I know there are many different ways to construct a building.

Contact a constructor and let them start with expert pictures, it should cost from 1-2,500 SEK to be on the safe side.

Have you received a building permit for this construction?
Or is the garage you’re planning to build outside the detailed development plan area?

Yes, I also have my doubts about the general splice up there and would never have built like that myself. But I am an amateur and don’t know if it's okay to do so.

 

[FredrikR]

Yes, I also have my doubts about the ridge beam up there and would never build it that way myself. But I'm an amateur and don't know if it's okay to do so.

I wouldn't think there’s any danger, the trusses don't look homemade, together with the likelihood that there is a building permit where the requirement for truss calculation is included?
Google self-supporting truss roof to see examples.

 

[Nissens]

Here you also have embedded standing hammer beam/support beam, there is no danger with the placement of the roof trusses/wall studs.

What do you mean also? It is solely the embedded beam that supports the roof trusses. Just as I wrote, it is only 45 mm that supports the roof trusses at each end.

The hammer beam neither contributes to nor detracts from supporting the roof trusses….

 

[Nissens]

In my opinion, a continuous general-joint has been constructed on all the overlying roof decking in the middle section from start to end; shouldn't these be doubled and jointed in different sections with (nail plates)?

Subsequently, a fixed crossbeam to hold it together?

Normally, you should have full-length pieces or a middle beam that captures the stability.

I know it's possible to build construction in many different ways.

Contact a structural engineer and let them examine the images to start with; it should cost around 1-2,500 SEK
To be on the safe side.

Have you received building permission for this construction?
Or is the garage you're planning to build outside the detailed plan area?

I don't see a joint on the crossbeams...