Snailman
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 5 586 posts
Snailman
Member
- Västra Götaland
- 5,586 posts
I was thinking of using a simple framework according to the wood guide, where you let one wall go all the way to the corner and the other goes up to the first wall...
My question is whether the wall that bears the weight of the roof trusses is the one that goes to the corner or not?
My question is whether the wall that bears the weight of the roof trusses is the one that goes to the corner or not?
Snailman
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 5 586 posts
Snailman
Member
- Västra Götaland
- 5,586 posts
I have now gone through my construction pictures, and there weren't many of them that show how they did it, but I can determine that they did it both ways...
I can also add that I intend to place a truss inside the standing studs at the gable (not outside of them, that is).
I can also add that I intend to place a truss inside the standing studs at the gable (not outside of them, that is).
I don't know if there is any right or wrong here.
When I was thinking about construction, I mostly focused on how the insulation work should function best and have as few thermal bridges as possible.
With the roof truss, I almost feel that it seems more natural to let the gable wall encompass the long walls. But as I said, I don't know about any potential right or wrong.
When I was thinking about construction, I mostly focused on how the insulation work should function best and have as few thermal bridges as possible.
With the roof truss inside the gable wall, you gain some extra sqm of living space without needing to buy more roof trusses.Snailman said:
With the roof truss, I almost feel that it seems more natural to let the gable wall encompass the long walls. But as I said, I don't know about any potential right or wrong.
Hello! Release the wall the trusses will be on. If you use posts like 45*145, mount one at the very end, leave a gap of 60 mm, and mount another stud. The next wall is nailed against it. The last post ends up on half of the stud, skew nail with 100 mm nails. Don't forget to insulate before the windproofing. There is another way to make outer corners. Then you can insulate from the inside.
Snailman
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 5 586 posts
Snailman
Member
- Västra Götaland
- 5,586 posts
These two solutions have Träguiden (you can register for free)
http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/popup2spalt.aspx?id=4559&contextPage=5947
http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/popup2spalt.aspx?id=4560&contextPage=5947
Registration http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/TGRegister.aspx?id=174
http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/popup2spalt.aspx?id=4559&contextPage=5947
http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/popup2spalt.aspx?id=4560&contextPage=5947
Registration http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/TGRegister.aspx?id=174
Snailman
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 5 586 posts
Snailman
Member
- Västra Götaland
- 5,586 posts
Here you can see one corner without needing to register.
http://www.mdh.se/ist/kurser/grundl.../p1_2004-2005/Litteratur/trastomme_smahus.pdf
page 5
http://www.mdh.se/ist/kurser/grundl.../p1_2004-2005/Litteratur/trastomme_smahus.pdf
page 5
The corners of exterior walls are always a favorite topic.
I've been racking my brains and want to see what the rest of the forum thinks about my solution.
As always, it's difficult to interpret images of this kind, but ask if anything is unclear.
In any case, it's a 195mm vertical stud frame, with 45x45 cross-bracing on both the outside and inside.
At the top of the gable peaks and against the outside of the wall, I will obviously place a stud acting as a "rafter" as a base for the decking before the roof slope.
I show images both with and without the cross-bracing drawn in, with the hope that it will be clearer.
I've been racking my brains and want to see what the rest of the forum thinks about my solution.
As always, it's difficult to interpret images of this kind, but ask if anything is unclear.
In any case, it's a 195mm vertical stud frame, with 45x45 cross-bracing on both the outside and inside.
At the top of the gable peaks and against the outside of the wall, I will obviously place a stud acting as a "rafter" as a base for the decking before the roof slope.
I show images both with and without the cross-bracing drawn in, with the hope that it will be clearer.
I was thinking of nailing the last standing stud of the gable against the long wall's. Now, I haven't checked if there's enough room to swing the hammer or if the next stud will be close. But it should be perfectly fine to use angle screws otherwise.
Hi
I think it looks brilliant in your pictures =)
It's exactly how my company would have done it.
Best regards Madde
I think it looks brilliant in your pictures =)
It's exactly how my company would have done it.
Best regards Madde
Thank you very much.
Now, however, there isn't much more to be done about it, the corners look like in the picture and the trusses rest on the wall plates, so I'm hardly going to redo anything now.
But I can add another question, the anchoring in the corners, i.e., the anchoring of the two intersecting walls.
What nail spacing and quality? Or perhaps nail plates and anchor nails?
Currently, I have joined it together with galvanized 100mm x 3.4 wire nails, at about cc600 mm.
+ an extra nail high up (i.e., about cc300 for the top three nails).
But just today, I started wondering if such a corner would withstand a snowy winter like last winter.
I can still easily drive in any number of extra nails or secure the corners with nail plates.
Now, however, there isn't much more to be done about it, the corners look like in the picture and the trusses rest on the wall plates, so I'm hardly going to redo anything now.
But I can add another question, the anchoring in the corners, i.e., the anchoring of the two intersecting walls.
What nail spacing and quality? Or perhaps nail plates and anchor nails?
Currently, I have joined it together with galvanized 100mm x 3.4 wire nails, at about cc600 mm.
+ an extra nail high up (i.e., about cc300 for the top three nails).
But just today, I started wondering if such a corner would withstand a snowy winter like last winter.
I can still easily drive in any number of extra nails or secure the corners with nail plates.
Hello again,
We usually insert 2-3 spax or similar in the corners. Otherwise, we leave them as they are. Sparse/panel and roof trusses and 50 angles for inner corners are usually enough.
Best regards, Madde
We usually insert 2-3 spax or similar in the corners. Otherwise, we leave them as they are. Sparse/panel and roof trusses and 50 angles for inner corners are usually enough.
Best regards, Madde
Now I have to ask what you mean by 50 angles ...?Madelene_g said:
A metal corner for gypsum, or metal angles in 50 mm size?
I have planned to place gypsum metal corners behind the panel material (OSB + gypsum) to join these at the inner corners of the outer wall and at the same time allow electrical conduit routing past the corner.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 060 posts
Mikael, it is not possible to place the sheet metal behind the OSB; place the sheet metal between the OSB and the gypsum. The screw just pushes the sheet metal away if it is behind the OSB, I can show you, but it is under 40 cm of loose fill.
If you have OSB behind, it "responds" better when the screw goes through the sheet metal.
Protte
If you have OSB behind, it "responds" better when the screw goes through the sheet metal.
Protte
Click here to reply



