10,418 views ·
25 replies
10k views
25 replies
OSB board instead of sparse panel under slanted roof cc 120 cm?
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We are in the process of extending a house with a pitched roof with trusses at 120 cm centers. To minimize the build-down, can you attach 11 mm OSB boards under the trusses and then secure 6 mm gypsum boards under these, instead of using battens + gypsum boards?
I'm a bit curious why you wouldn't want OSB + plastic + gypsum?SBH said:
The only reason I can see is that all the holes made to attach things will puncture the plastic, but maybe I've missed something
Thank you! We were considering having this directly against 13 cm of glass wool insulation, without any plastic or vapor barrier because the house is not fully heated year-round, and we were unsure if it would be strong enough – do you think it is, and could there be other problems if we did that?
Stick-builder
· Gävleborgs
· 2 434 posts
I would use gles, it's only about 2cm you save by using OSB and renovation gypsum.
And I would still use plastic in the ceiling even if the house wasn't heated year-round.
Is it a sloped ceiling?
And I would still use plastic in the ceiling even if the house wasn't heated year-round.
Is it a sloped ceiling?
Yes. It could work. But I wouldn't have used gypsum.mpa said:Thank you! We were considering having this directly against 13 cm of glass wool insulation, without any plastic or vapor barrier since the house is not fully heated year-round, and were unsure if it would be strong enough – do you think it would, and could there be other issues if we do it like that?
Stick-builder
· Gävleborgs
· 2 434 posts
That's how many houses have been built, and it's a fairly new invention to install a service cavity with 45-70mm insulation between the wall panels and the plastic. The service cavities were introduced not because there were problems with moisture, but because houses became more airtight by avoiding holes in the plastic, for instance, during electrical installations.SBH said:
Now, I am indeed talking about exterior walls, but the principle is the same for roofs.
Yes, it works in walls. I can't explain the building physics. However, you get moisture problems in the roof if you screw panels directly onto the vapor barrier. But I only have 20 years of experience, so what do I know after having dismantled several moldy roofs?Gabbe1 said:Many houses have been built this way, it's quite a new invention to place an installation layer with 45-70mm insulation between the wall panels and the plastic. Installation layers were introduced not because there were moisture problems outside but because the houses became more airtight if you avoided making holes in the plastic for things like electrical wiring.
Now, I'm talking about exterior walls, but the principle is the same for roofs.
You are wrong. In an old house with insufficient insulation, there may certainly be problems (but you would get them even with a batten panel in that case). With a modern insulated ceiling, there are guaranteed to be no problems!SBH said:
what is a modern house to you?vectrex said:
got a job last week where the private individual had chosen to place directly on the plastic. mold all over the ceiling. can't remember if it was paroc, isover or t-täk fancy plastic