There is a manufacturer in Haparanda that makes adventure caravans with space to drive in a snowmobile or four-wheeler. Fun concept but surely not cheap. It's called Cojan.
What a flashback... Dad got a midlife crisis at 55 when he became disabled and bought a 15-year-old Norrlandsvagn that he planned to fix up into something. The only use it saw during the 10 years it stood on the hill was to hang a poached moose and to butcher a few more. Dad never finished his wagon, but he did manage to gut and repaint the interior. Now it's over 20 years since he sold the wagon to another equally crazy old man, and I really hope it's turned into something more fun than an empty shell.
I hope the same with your wagon, that something nice comes of it. Cover the walls with thin plywood. For tips, I would search on YouTube for "Build a camper van." I've watched many builds and have been eager for a project for a long time, but the midlife crisis hasn't quite manifested strongly enough yet.
what a flashback... Dad had a midlife crisis at 55 when he became an early retiree and bought a 15-year-old Norrland trailer that he wanted to fix up for something... The only use it had during the 10 years it stood in the yard was to hang a poached moose and to butcher a few others.
Dad never finished his trailer, but it did get gutted and repainted inside. Now it's over 20 years since he sold the trailer to another equally crazy guy, and I really hope it's become something more fun than an empty shell.
I hope the same with your trailer. That it becomes something nice.
Line the walls with thin plywood. As for tips, I would search on YouTube for "Build a camper van." I've watched many builds and have been tempted to start a project, but the midlife crisis hasn't hit me hard enough yet.
You have to love the stories about these trailers. Both during their active time as rest shacks and afterwards. If the walls could talk!
Great tips! I've seen similar things pop up on Instagram among other places, but I hadn't realized they were transferable to this project, and as for the midlife crisis, I can only hope you avoid it—it tends to get expensive!
I know two people who converted a slightly smaller version that the old Televerket used into a mobile sauna. They weren't allowed to build a beachside building on their own land due to neighbors complaining. But rolling down a temporary mobile sauna on wheels was approved by the county board. Now, the neighbors complained so much that it had to be moved a couple of times over the season, but it works and is still in place.
Wheels have saved many from the shoreline protection; I myself have a full-sized sauna with a changing room and a deck on a tractor wagon, placed on the meadow edge in the summers.
I don't know if there's any interest in this, but maybe it can give some enjoyment or a good laugh to someone out there, and with a little luck, maybe I'll get some answers to questions that come up along the way.
Now it's no better than that I've caught a slight 30-year crisis, so last fall, I spontaneously bought an old Norrland wagon in a neighboring municipality. It was somewhat run-down, but it didn't smell bad and seemed to have a reasonably limited water damage, so I went for it. A risk, absolutely, but believe me - it was CHEAP! (warning signs, I know, but the want was stronger), and to be honest, who wouldn't want to sit out in the woods and stoke the stove in silence?
Anyway, I got it home and started tinkering with the contraption, and it didn't take long before I realized the extent of the water damage. This wagon has a wooden frame that's been clad with a shell of aluminum plates that were riveted together in 1976. After years of rough treatment by forestry workers and various more or less inebriated hunters thereafter, the shell wasn't particularly tight anymore, and water had gotten in around the entire roof so that the wooden frame in the roof was nothing but tinder, as well as the supports in all corners. That it survived the transport home behind a tractor on 20 km of gravel road was a bit of a miracle, even if the shell itself is load-bearing.
Since then, I've cut the wall panels along the entire interior at the floor and ceiling, as well as the corners (in other words, exposed the old wooden frame) and pulled out the rotten wood. In other words, all wood has been removed. Moreover, the old wall that separated the "living area" and a maintenance room has been demolished to get a bit more space. To my great pleasure, most of the insulation seems salvageable, so in recent days, I've started building a new frame with 45×95 timber that is screwed from the outside with self-drilling roof screws.
So, here we finally come to my first 2 questions!
1. The walls are curved to get a bit more space, so what sheet material do you think is sensible to use? It should be "soft" enough to follow the curve of the wall and durable for temperature differences, etc., that arise in a wagon used sporadically, so in other words, goes from warm to cold often, and preferably it should not cost a fortune either.
2. When the structural integrity is as it should be, a tp 20 metal roof will be laid on top of the existing roof. I planned to have a 20 cm overhang around the perimeter to give the wagon some extra weather protection. This is a measure I've taken from nowhere, so if you have any thoughts or suggestions that might be better?
The work is proceeding at a slow pace, and Easter is running away, so I thought I'd throw in a small update. New framework timber is now being put in the roof, and I have now started on the framing in/on the walls. We've decided that the old workshop section will be the sleeping area with storage options under the bed, so there I need something to attach the bed frame into and chose to go with 45×95 all the way. Throwing in some pictures of today's work.
The next consideration is regarding the windows, as you can hardly see out through them on the long side of the wagon. Well, this is where a partner working at a glass company comes in handy; I'll hear what the guys there think
JJolofssson said:
Hello everyone!
I don't know if there's any interest in this, but maybe it can give some enjoyment or a good laugh to someone out there, and with a little luck, maybe I'll get some answers to questions that come up along the way.
Now it's no better than that I've caught a slight 30-year crisis, so last fall, I spontaneously bought an old Norrland wagon in a neighboring municipality. It was somewhat run-down, but it didn't smell bad and seemed to have reasonably limited water damage, so I went for it. A risk, absolutely, but believe me - it was CHEAP! (warning signs, I know, but the want was stronger), and to be honest, who wouldn't want to sit out in the woods and stoke the stove in silence?
Anyway, I got it home and started tinkering with the contraption, and it didn't take long before I realized the extent of the water damage. This wagon has a wooden frame that's been clad with a shell of aluminum plates that were riveted together in 1976. After years of rough treatment by forestry workers and various more or less inebriated hunters thereafter, the shell wasn't particularly tight anymore, and water had gotten in around the entire roof so that the wooden frame in the roof was nothing but tinder, as well as the supports in all corners. That it survived the transport home behind a tractor on 20 km of gravel road was a bit of a miracle, even if the shell itself is load-bearing.
Since then, I've cut the wall panels along the entire interior at the floor and ceiling, as well as the corners (in other words, exposed the old wooden frame) and pulled out the rotten wood. In other words, all wood has been removed. Moreover, the old wall that separated the "living area" and a maintenance room has been demolished to get a bit more space. To my great pleasure, most of the insulation seems salvageable, so in recent days, I've started building a new frame with 45×95 timber that is screwed from the outside with self-drilling roof screws.
So, here we finally come to my first 2 questions!
1. The walls are curved to get a bit more space, so what sheet material do you think is sensible to use? It should be "soft" enough to follow the curve of the wall and durable for temperature differences, etc., that arise in a wagon used sporadically, so in other words, goes from warm to cold often, and preferably it should not cost a fortune either.
2. When the structural integrity is as it should be, a tp 20 metal roof will be laid on top of the existing roof. I planned to have a 20 cm overhang around the perimeter to give the wagon some extra weather protection. This is a measure I've taken from nowhere, so if you have any thoughts or suggestions that might be better?
JJolofssson said:
Hello everyone!
I don't know if there's any interest in this, but maybe it can give some enjoyment or a good laugh to someone out there, and with a little luck, maybe I'll get some answers to questions that come up along the way.
Now it's no better than that I've caught a slight 30-year crisis, so last fall, I spontaneously bought an old Norrland wagon in a neighboring municipality. It was somewhat run-down, but it didn't smell bad and seemed to have reasonably limited water damage, so I went for it. A risk, absolutely, but believe me - it was CHEAP! (warning signs, I know, but the want was stronger), and to be honest, who wouldn't want to sit out in the woods and stoke the stove in silence?
Anyway, I got it home and started tinkering with the contraption, and it didn't take long before I realized the extent of the water damage. This wagon has a wooden frame that's been clad with a shell of aluminum plates that were riveted together in 1976. After years of rough treatment by forestry workers and various more or less inebriated hunters thereafter, the shell wasn't particularly tight anymore, and water had gotten in around the entire roof so that the wooden frame in the roof was nothing but tinder, as well as the supports in all corners. That it survived the transport home behind a tractor on 20 km of gravel road was a bit of a miracle, even if the shell itself is load-bearing.
Since then, I've cut the wall panels along the entire interior at the floor and ceiling, as well as the corners (in other words, exposed the old wooden frame) and pulled out the rotten wood. In other words, all wood has been removed. Moreover, the old wall that separated the "living area" and a maintenance room has been demolished to get a bit more space. To my great pleasure, most of the insulation seems salvageable, so in recent days, I've started building a new frame with 45×95 timber that is screwed from the outside with self-drilling roof screws.
So, here we finally come to my first 2 questions!
1. The walls are curved to get a bit more space, so what sheet material do you think is sensible to use? It should be "soft" enough to follow the curve of the wall and durable for temperature differences, etc., that arise in a wagon used sporadically, so in other words, goes from warm to cold often, and preferably it should not cost a fortune either.
2. When the structural integrity is as it should be, a tp 20 metal roof will be laid on top of the existing roof. I planned to have a 20 cm overhang around the perimeter to give the wagon some extra weather protection. This is a measure I've taken from nowhere, so if you have any thoughts or suggestions that might be better?
Cheesen said:
what a flashback... Dad got a 55-year crisis when he became a disability pensioner and bought a 15-year-old Norrland wagon that he was going to fix up to something... The only thing I know it was used for during the 10 years it stood on the hill was to hang a poached moose and to butcher down a few of them.
Dad never finished his wagon, but it did get gutted and repainted inside. Now it's over 20 years since he sold the wagon to an equally crazy old man, and I really hope it has become something more fun than an empty shell.
The same hope I have for your wagon, that it becomes something nice out of it.
Cover the walls with thin plywood. For tips, I would search on YouTube "Build a camper van".. I've watched many projects and have been tempted for a long time on a project, but the age crisis has not become strong enough yet.
The work is proceeding at a slow pace, and Easter is running away, so I thought I'd throw in a small update. New framework timber is now being put in the roof, and I have now started on the framing in/on the walls. We've decided that the old workshop section will be the sleeping area with storage options under the bed, so there I need something to attach the bed frame into and chose to go with 45×95 all the way. Throwing in some pictures of today's work
A little off-topic. This is a Come On, a caravan entirely made of foam and fiberglass by Bolin Båt in Nyland, which also manufactured construction sheds etc.
They were sold as semi-finished products, a shell on wheels that you had to furnish yourself.
An acquaintance, a skilled carpenter, bought it in 1978 and furnished it; I bought it in 1991 and had it for many years.
I don't know if there's any interest in this, but maybe it can provide some enjoyment or a good laugh to someone out there, and with a bit of luck, maybe I'll get some answers to questions that come up along the way.
Now, it's no better than that I've had a minor 30-year crisis, so last fall I spontaneously bought an old Norrland trailer in the neighboring municipality. It was admittedly somewhat run-down, but it didn't smell bad and seemed to have quite limited water damage, so I went for it. A risk for sure, but trust me - it was CHEAP! (a warning sign I know, but the want was stronger) and honestly, who doesn't want to sit out in the middle of the woods and fire up the stove in silence?
Anyway, I got it home and began poking around in the contraption, and it didn't take long to realize the extent of the water damage. This trailer has a wooden frame clad with a shell of aluminum plates that were riveted together in 1976. After years of rough treatment by forestry workers and various more or less inebriated hunters afterwards, the shell was not particularly tight anymore, and water has seeped in around the entire roof so that the wooden frame in the roof was nothing but tinder, as well as the supports in all the corners, so the fact that it survived being transported home behind a tractor on 20 km of gravel road was somewhat of a miracle, even if the shell itself is load-bearing.
Since then, I've cut the wall panels along the entire cabin at the floor and ceiling as well as the corners (thus exposing the old wooden frame) and picked out the rotten timber... In other words, all the wood has been removed. Additionally, the old wall that separated the "living area" and the mechanic room has been torn down to make some more space. To my great delight, most of the insulation seems salvageable so I've started building a new frame with 45×95 stud timber, which is screwed from the outside with self-drilling roof screws.
So here we finally come to my first two considerations!
1. The walls are curved to get a bit more space, so what sheet material do you think is reasonable to use?
It should be "soft" enough to follow the curvature of the wall and durable enough for temperature differences etc. that occur in a trailer used sporadically, going from warm to cold often; it shouldn't cost a fortune either.
2. When the structural integrity is as it should be, a tp 20 metal roof will be placed over the existing roof. I was thinking of having a 20 cm overhang all around to protect the trailer a bit extra from the weather. This is a measurement I pulled from nowhere, so do you have any thoughts or suggestions that might be better?
Worked fine for three years now, made two trusses as extra support in the roof. Located in Norrland, so we have a lot of snow
Great! Interesting with the heating too.
Same with my caravan, it will be standing out in the middle of nowhere north of Luleå, so I've been thinking a bit about roof support. The basic idea was that the internal frame in 45×95 would provide enough support, but I'm considering if it might be wise to have a solution like yours where maybe overengineering a bit, but when you're doing it, why not?
Lovely! Interesting about the heat as well. Same thing with my wagon, will be standing out in the middle of nowhere north of Luleå so I've been considering reinforcement on the roof. The basic idea was that the internal frame in 45×95 would provide enough support but I'm wondering if it might be wise to have a solution like yours, maybe over-dimension a bit, but if you're doing it anyway, why not?
TTomas Olsson1 said:
Worked fine for three years now, made two trusses as extra support in the roof. Stationed in Norrland so we have a lot of snow
yes, can't go wrong with that, avoids having to redo it. Works really well with a diesel stove, no waking up in a cold wagon.
Hi, it's great to follow your journey with the renovation of your Norrlandsvagn! I also have one that I intend to refurbish, but can't find much information on how to proceed other than your link here. I see that you have painted yours black. What paint did you use for that? My outer walls are made of aluminum, and I assume yours are too. I didn't know there was paint that adheres to it, so that's why I'm asking. Grateful for an answer ❣️
Hi, how fun to follow your journey with renovating your northland trailer! I also have one that I'm planning to fix up, but can't find much info on how to proceed besides your link here. I see that you have repainted yours black. What paint did you use for that? My outer walls are made of aluminum and I assume yours are too. I didn't know that there was paint that sticks to it, so that's why I'm asking. Grateful for an answer ❣️
Hi, I sanded a little where it was needed and washed with ammonia. Then I painted with a kind of metal paint from Colorama, seems to hold up well, painted it about three years ago.
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.
Cheesen said:
MRLINDELL said:
Hello.83 said: