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Nogging pieces in the floor structure - how many ?
Hi,
I need advice on how many noggings are needed for this joist construction.
The architect didn't include any - but I still think cross braces or install noggings.
The question is just where and how many?
Best regards,
Hobbit
I need advice on how many noggings are needed for this joist construction.
The architect didn't include any - but I still think cross braces or install noggings.
The question is just where and how many?
Best regards,
Hobbit
1. Yes, upper floor
2. No, an HEA 260 steel beam
3. 6410
4. Yes, in the upper right dormer
Yes indeed, glulam, steel beam, hjärtvägg whatever...Hobbit said:
But you kindly answer exactly the question I ask, *hehe*
With 220x45 in C24 and glued 22mm chipboard flooring you should have sufficient stability with a span of 3200 per section. I don't think you actually need blocking or bracing.
Not sure if I would bother myself.
But if you decide to do it, one row of blocking per section, in the middle of the section, should suffice very well.
Here's how I did it where I had a span of about 3800
http://www.byggahus.se/showthread.php?t=155701
The one who asks shall receive an answer - of course. 
I also don't think the beams can twist.
I just want to distribute the load as much as possible.
The upper floor will be a loft that my kid will get as his first bachelor pad. And you know what a group of teenagers might come up with - like jumping on a trampoline indoors..............
So sure, it might be a bit excessive with noggins and 170 walls instead of 145, and HEA 260 instead of HEA 240 - but when I build, I build for eternity, you know .....
I also don't think the beams can twist.
I just want to distribute the load as much as possible.
The upper floor will be a loft that my kid will get as his first bachelor pad. And you know what a group of teenagers might come up with - like jumping on a trampoline indoors..............
So sure, it might be a bit excessive with noggins and 170 walls instead of 145, and HEA 260 instead of HEA 240 - but when I build, I build for eternity, you know .....
You don't use blocking/cross-bracing to prevent the beams from twisting, but to achieve a more rigid floor. The cross-bracing forces the adjacent beams to take some of the load, thereby reducing deflection under point loads.
If you really hate the idea of even suspecting any sway, then you should block/cross-brace your floor structure, preferably with a row in the middle of each bay, i.e., about 1.6 meters from the outer wall. But don't forget to screw and glue the chipboard flooring, this does a tremendous amount to reduce sway.
If you really hate the idea of even suspecting any sway, then you should block/cross-brace your floor structure, preferably with a row in the middle of each bay, i.e., about 1.6 meters from the outer wall. But don't forget to screw and glue the chipboard flooring, this does a tremendous amount to reduce sway.
Hijacking the thread.... Regarding glued chipboard flooring. Should they be glued to the joists or just to each other (tongue and groove)?
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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=59.370644,18.134520
They should be glued to the joists and in the tongue and groove. And screwed.Larsa said:
Otherwise, I have roughly the same spans as the original poster and no noggins...that's a relic from the time before flooring panels and screw-gluing. I don't experience any sway despite small children jumping and running around. I would probably spend time and money to reduce the center-to-center distance to 30 cm across the entire joist if there was a risk of young people breaking the flooring panels or putting them into motion. Alternatively, lay a self-supporting 25mm pine floor across the joists to further secure it.
Both. Download the installation instructions for your specific floor particle boards and follow them. They usually specify everything, from the type and amount of glue to where it should be applied.Larsa said:
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